Sicily - an island of contrasts
Last year, a round trip through Italy's largest island took me in the footsteps of the Greeks, Arabs and Normans and the Hohenstaufen Frederick II, which was like an educational trip. I discovered Palermo as an architectural jewel, the Valle dei Templi as a World Heritage Site, Mount Etna as an omnipresent volcano, and fine cuisine with wine from the island. Golf only played a minor role, but at least with four courses that couldn't be more different.
Arrived in Palermo
As the Italian Capital of Culture 2018, it is also considered the most Arab city in Italy and a street food metropolis, which is best demonstrated in the Albergheria district as Palermo's Arab-Norman heritage. On a guided half-day tour with Massimo, the focus was on the churches: the beautiful 12th century Palermo Cathedral, the Gesù Church, one of the most important Baroque churches here and the churches of San Cataldo and Martorana, two other churches from the Norman Sicilian era and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We strolled through the picturesque streets of the Sestiere Politeama and saw such famous buildings as the Teatro Politeama and Massimo, one of the largest opera houses in Europe. Massimo told us about the Arab-Norman era and the religious customs in the Cappella Palatina, in the Palazzo Reale from the 12th century. After so much architecture with different architectural styles from Gothic to early Renaissance to Baroque, we were looking forward to the Capo street markets with various stalls, all kinds of food, colorful textiles and a hustle and bustle of people. Our ramble ended at the baroque Villa Square, where we could observe the vibrant life between all kinds of souvenir stores. Then it was time to indulge in the excellent food. Towards the end of May there are medlars and strawberries, followed by apricots, cherries and small, sweet pears. The countryside is full of wild fennel, asparagus and artichokes. We tried pasta con le sarde (pasta with fresh sardines, wild fennel and pine nuts) then tuna or swordfish and of course cassata to finish. Yes, there is also an option for golf here in the middle of the city. Although the Palermo Parco Airoldi Golf Club is only a 9-hole par 3 course, it is beautifully situated in a 210,000 m² park dating back to the 18th century and is definitely worth a round of golf.
Belle-Époque jewel Villa Igea
Staying right by the sea on a hill surrounded by palm trees, pines and cypresses - that's what this grand hotel, called
Villa Igea
. This jewel was awakened from its slumber by Italian hotelier Rocco Forte and his sister Olga Polizzi, who, as always, is responsible for the hotel group's design. You will be amazed to find yourself in the middle of the Belle Époque period, which is reflected throughout the hotel in a way that you will not find anywhere else so consistently implemented: In the interior, mainly with Italian manufacturers - whether with Carrera marble, Scianna ceramics , rattan furniture and beautiful parquet flooring, wall frescoes by Ettore de Maria Bergler, the artist who also created the frescoes in the state hall "Sala Basile". Even in the corridors, you are accompanied by magnificent nature on the walls and art objects, complemented by mirrors and furniture by the architect Basile. How lucky to live here! The spacious 72 guest rooms and 28 suites, all in different colors - from pomegranate yellow, sage green, hibiscus blue to amber and furnished with sumptuous fabrics and antiques - guarantee an opulent living experience. In addition, there is the wonderful view from the window to the sea over cypresses, palm trees and all kinds of flowering shrubs in the park, where the spa building is also located. Here you can dine in the Florio restaurant in the style of Louis XVI with a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea or in the Igea Terrazza Bar in the middle of a sandstone vault with original frescoes by the Sicilian artist Eugenio Morici. An unforgettable experience for me and all art fans.
The journey to the east of the island
On the drive along the Ionian Sea I passed
Catania
, known as the lava stone city, to the historic mountain town of Taormina. In between are a few charming fishing villages, framed by romantic beaches. All of this is overlooked from above by the highest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna, whose presence has always shaped the entire region geologically, culturally, gastronomically and historically. Vineyards cover the lower fertile slopes of "A Muntagna", as the locals call their volcano, and the wine, made from local grape varieties such as Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, is of excellent quality. The 17th century saw two decisive events: the eruption of Mount Etna in 1669, which covered Catania in lava, and the second was the earthquake of 1693, which destroyed large parts of Catania (as well as the towns of the Val di Noto). The center of the city was subsequently rebuilt in the elegant lava stone baroque style. The Cathedral of Sant'Agata, Piazza Duomo and the lively markets are well worth a visit. By contrast, things are comparatively turbulent in
Taormina
. Thanks to its magnificent hilltop location, its picturesque pedestrian zones, its beaches and its Greco-Roman theater with a view of Mount Etna, Taormina is the most visited city in Sicily.
Golfing with Mount Etna in your sights
After a short search, I was in the small town of Castiglione di Sicilia and in the hotel
Il Piccioli Etna Resort & Spa
at an altitude of 600 meters. What looks like a venerable grand hotel from the outside is a little dated on the inside. Although the rooms are spacious and you can choose between standard, maisonette and suite rooms, the furnishings would benefit from a refurbishment. The same applies to the huge clubhouse, formerly an infirmary, which offers neither food nor a decent pro store. But it was due to be renovated last year. I can only have positive things to say about the 18-hole course of the same name, which is right next door, despite a few shortcomings: I particularly remember the varied layout uphill towards snow-covered Mount Etna. Also the old trees that come into play, the many doglegs and hidden ponds. Attractive volcanic rocks sometimes divide the fairway, which winds narrowly up and down. Beautiful tee shots from the top into the valley ultimately result in a good score - if you can find your way around the multi-level greens!
Beautiful living at Il Borgo di Lucce with the I Monasteri Golf Resort & Spa
On the drive via Messina to
Syracuse
you can't miss the old town called Ortigia Island. Right at the entrance is the Temple of Apollo, the Castello Maniace, the Piazza del Duomo and the cathedral. If you still feel like it, you can spend some time at the harbor or in the alleyways of the old town. After a short drive, you reach the "Borgo". The fact that this is a former Benedictine monastery can only be guessed from the name of the 18-hole course. The former country estate with older and modern buildings, a spacious pool in the middle and a beautiful terrace overlooking the golf course is a wonderful, peaceful vacation home. The restaurant with gourmet cuisine and the stylish bar with art on the walls will win over any critic. Yes, if only the course itself hadn't been in a deplorable state. Marco, the new manager, agrees and now wants to improve things. Whether he has succeeded to date is beyond my knowledge. Nevertheless, the layout with huge cacti, pine trees, agaraves and vines gives hope for a nice game, especially as the course is never overcrowded. Perhaps the most exciting hole is the 17th, a long par 5 with a double dogleg, which is a real challenge in good conditions. It will be interesting to see whether the new manager can make a fresh start. Good luck from my side!
Good news in the southwest of Sicily
The Verdura Golf & Spa Resort is located near the fishing village of Sciacca on 230 hectares of land, surrounded by olive and orange trees and the course of the new 18-hole course of the same name, the "East Course". The CEO of the Rocco Forte Collection thought it was the best place for a 45-hole golf course and hired Californian golf course architect Kyle Phillips. The result was that the "Verdura Golf & Spa Resort" was rated one of the best golf resorts in Europe. Today, this includes two excitingly beautiful 18-hole courses, with the "new" one now running along the sea as a kind of links course after the redesign and is immediately ranked as number 3 of the best in Europe. There is also a 9-hole par 3 course, which is ideal for training and for the golf academy. Even if, like me, you have been here before, you get the feeling that all three courses have always been here, as they blend perfectly into the landscape and meander between citrus and olive groves from the foothills of the mountains down to the Mediterranean. The clubhouse, a former castle with a deep red tower on the hill, attracts visitors from afar. Modern and exclusively furnished with the latest golf fashion brands, it also houses a rustic-looking pizzeria with its own pizza oven, whose fine aromas encourage you to stay after your round - if you are not lucky enough to be staying at this 5-star resort: All 203 rooms and suites, with terrace and sea view, have been furnished with attention to detail: Furniture and fabrics are stylishly coordinated, along with the lighting, and each room shines in original Sicilian colors. Romantics will be delighted by the four-poster bed in dark wood
wood and white curtains, the hammock on the terrace for two and the many plants in the patio at the front of the suite. And that is exactly what Sir Rocco Forte wants:
"Design should be comfortable and practical, while luxury should be simple and elegant". The dining concept is also exceptional and can be enjoyed in the four restaurants: "BUONGIORNO" with a children's menu, "LA ZAGARA" à-la-carte delicacies, "LIOLA' " pasta and pizza and "AMARE" on the beach for barbecue and fish. Private dining by candlelight in the romantic corners of the resort is particularly popular with honeymooners, who are the resort's preferred guests. What golfers particularly appreciate here is the 4,000 m2 SPA with eleven treatment rooms and terraces for outdoor treatments. The focus here is on anti-ageing, detox, detox, diet and energizing, with ingredients made from regional products. With four thalassotherapy pools, hammam, sauna, gym, yoga, a cosmetics department and relaxation zones, the offer here is truly unique in Sicily. Also because in addition to the golf offer # there are six tennis courts, a 60-metre infinity pool, a soccer pitch, an equipped gym with a comprehensive program of fitness and meditation activities as well as jogging trails that wind through the olive and citrus groves of the estate. If you're still missing something, you can go on a cultural hike to the Valley of the Temples, a World Heritage Site, or spend some time in nearby Agrigento.
Further information:
Golf Club Palermo Parco Airoldi
www.golfclubpalermo.com
Il Picciolo Etna Golf
Castiglione di Sicilia
www.ilpiccioloetnagolfresort.com
I Monasteri Golf
Borgo di Luce, Siracus
www.imonasterigolfresort.com
Verdura Golf & Spa Resort
Sciacca
