Monasteries, myths, wine & golf
My latest trip to Bulgaria proved it once again: it's just too bad to associate the country only with cheap package tourism on the Black Sea coast. After all, if you travel around the country a little, a veritable treasure trove of undiscovered possibilities opens up. Starting with monasteries with precious icons, fine cuisine and cellars, thermal baths and luxury resorts in the middle of the wine region. Yes - and of course there's golf too.
My itinerary sounded very promising:
The city of Sofia and its cultural monuments, the natural phenomenon of the Pyramids of Stob, the city of Melnik as a hotspot for wine and culinary delights, the Rila Monastery, as one of the most important cultural monuments and a UNESCO heritage site, the mineral springs in Belchin and golf at its finest.
The fact that Bulgaria is a multicultural country is already evident in the capital Sofia , where Romans, Greeks, Byzantines, Turks and Russians have immortalized themselves with magnificent cultural buildings. Sofia's landmark, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral , whose 5 naves are decorated with gold, mosaics, marble and wood carvings and the gold of the Thracians in the National Museum with the oldest gold treasure in the world, is therefore also a must-see. In addition, many Christian Orthodox churches have been completely preserved and characterize the cityscape alongside the Ottoman buildings. But Sofia, with over 1 million inhabitants, is also a vibrant student city with many small pubs, boutiques and a lively pedestrian zone.
On the journey towards the border triangle where Bulgaria meets Macedonia and Greece, the next highlight awaits in Stob - the pyramids of Stob in the western part of the Rila Mountains. We reach the yellow-colored conical sandstone formations, which also have different names, such as Kulite (the towers), Chukite (the peaks), Samodivski Komini (the fairy-like chimneys), Zaberite (the rock spires), after a narrow climb that is not for the faint-hearted. But once at the top, there is a fantastic panoramic view over a glowing yellow sea of pyramid-like rocks in the middle of forest-covered hills. Down in the valley comes the next feast for the eyes, the town of Melnik , the smallest town in Bulgaria with only 160 inhabitants, but this changes when the tourists flock here to taste the wines from the autochthonous Shiroka Melnishka Losa vine. The architecture of the houses here is particularly interesting: opulent upper floors made of dark wood, while the lower floors are used to cool the wine. Vines also dominate the landscape of the area, where every house is entwined with them. In the middle of the vineyards, however, lies a real gem - the Zornitza Estate , which can easily be given 5 stars. Six villas surrounded by roses, a pool fed by thermal water, a stylish restaurant with a large terrace with panoramic views and a spa complete the peaceful complex with a small lake and several picnic areas all around. Yes, there is also a small farm for growing vegetables and a 9-hole golf course. So, in addition to a perfect relaxing vacation, there's plenty to do here for a few days. Most guests come from Thessaloniki and can be here in less than an hour. Wine connoisseurs in particular appreciate the Zornitza red wines, which are perfectly presented by the well-traveled sommelier Aleksander Skorchev. The fact that neither the international wine selection in the well-stocked wine cellar nor the culinary variety is spared naturally attracts an international clientele here.
The Rila Monastery at the foot of the 1000 meter high mountain of the same name is also a "must see" as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Bulgaria's most important cultural monuments. Even the journey there through a seemingly forgotten, lovely valley makes the world stand still all around you. The feeling intensifies when you arrive at this sacred place. It is not only the size and architecture of the monastery that is impressive, but especially the depictions from the Gospel, the wall paintings and frescoes on the outside and the shining gold icons and portraits on the inside. Between the 10th and 20th centuries, 200 monks lived here, turning the monastery into a valuable museum today. The treasures hidden here are unforgettable!
The fact that we paid our respects to the former fortune teller Vanga, who made a name for herself as a healer and clairvoyant, in Petric is due to the firm belief of the locals and their myths. The nearby hot springs, on the other hand, are truly something you can visit at the drop of a hat - bathing is allowed here! But yes, there is also the SPA Hotel Belchin Spring with basins full of mineral water, 4-star comfort and professional therapists who do the SPA proud. Of course, this also benefits golfers, who can let off steam here near Sofia on two 18-hole championship courses - the Pravets Golf Course , designed by golf icon Peter Harradine and St. Sofia Golf Course , designed by Paul McGinley, who completely renovated the course a good 12 years ago. The course - just 30 minutes from Sofia - is embedded in gently undulating terrain with bushes and trees and is suitable for all levels of play, as long as you are not afraid of water. Because there is plenty of it here, partly hidden behind hills or hilly terrain. Despite the proximity to the city, it is wonderfully quiet and you can enjoy a round of golf without the usual hustle and bustle. A real eye-catcher is the whitewashed colonial-style hotel, which is often booked for weddings or parties of all kinds. In contrast, the clubhouse of the Pravets GC is modern and imposing, with a well-equipped pro store where you can also hire branded clubs. The course here is embedded in a hilly landscape with perfect greens, long and short holes, which are lined up along the reservoir in front of the imposing Riu Hotel. My signature holes here were the island green on hole 8 and the largest double green I've ever seen, right next to the clubhouse terrace. This is where the 9 meets the 18 and the approach shot is a source of laughter and admiration for the players sitting above. It's just a pity that the course is rather a sleeping beauty, even though it can easily compete with the best "leading courses".
What is missing from the story so far are the culinary experiences, and there is plenty to tell:
Traditionally, Bulgarian food starts with a generous Schopska salad, peppers stuffed with sheep's cheese, eggplant puree, yogurt soup or bean soup. Then you can choose between lamb dishes, grilled meat of all kinds, shashlik, minced meat rolls or baniza - puff pastry filled with sheep's cheese, eggs, vegetables and herbs. Traditional hard sausages such as sudschuk, lukana or babek are also very popular, especially with the male audience. This is accompanied by good local beer of various brands or good Bulgarian red wines such as Mavrud, Cabernet, Gamza or Merlot from Melnik. The dessert menu offers pastries, almost always with honey, various creams or yogurts and always and everywhere a grape or plum brandy. Na zdrave!
Further information at:
For the great organization:
travellersarchive.de
bulgariatravel.org/de/
www.grandhotelsofia.bg
www.zornitzaestate.com/bg/
www.belchin-spring.com
stsofiagolf.com
www.riu.com/en/hotel/bulgaria/pravets/hotel-riu-pravets/
www.maxperience.bg/golf
www.dianainrthefilm.com
