Impressions of a trip to Tuscany
Looking back on last year's convertible tour to autumnal Tuscany, our plan with culture in the city and golf & wine in the countryside worked out perfectly. Perhaps we could have spent a little more time in Florence, but three very different hotels awaited us and the game of golf also took its toll on our time. On the other hand, the fantastic wines of Tuscany, topped only by an equally creative cuisine, enticed us afterwards.
Even at the end of October, the temperatures were still suitable for a convertible, so we were able to soak up all the beauty of this Italian province with the top down: Olive groves and vineyards on rolling hills, surrounded by stately cypresses, in between picturesque little towns with a colorful profusion of flowers in equally colorful pots in front of the windows - a postcard idyll par excellence! Sometimes it's hard to get caught up in the hustle and bustle of a city. But the capital Florence is a must-see and can be easily explored despite being a city of millions. "The worldwide queen of all art metropolises" - according to my travel book - unfolds its full splendor between the cathedral and the Piazza della Signora: the Palazzo Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery, one of the most famous art museums, the Fountain of Neptune and the Palazzo Bombicci with Italian artists of the 20th century catch the eye. In between, you can stroll along Via dei Calzaiuoli with the best Italian fashion stores and then take a selfie on the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence. Unfortunately, the interesting golf stores are closed in the evening.
Instead, we opted for a romantic dinner right by the old bridge at the Trattoria Lo Stracotto restaurant. The fact that we didn't stay longer in this interesting town was due to an invitation to play golf at Le Pavoniere Golf Club , which is located near the town on a historic site, was on the agenda here, as was the drink afterwards in the restored 19th century villa - a former estate of Leopoldo dei Medici - the current clubhouse.
In the heart of Tuscany
Lush olive groves and extensive vineyards accompanied us on the winding mountain road to our next accommodation - the 5-star Hotel Castelfalfi , whose extensive estate extends over 2,700 hectares. A borgo over 800 years old awaited us here, with a historical background that can still be seen in the narrow alleyways and old stone buildings. Originally settled by the Etruscans and once owned by the Medici, the historic castle and the surrounding land changed hands over time. Today, the area is lined with stores, restored farmhouses and private residences, with the original tobacco factory - once the main source of employment for the locals - now housing one of the two main buildings of the five-star resort. The modern furniture in the lobby and adjoining bar, which is inspired by the colors of the Tuscan countryside, shows that a lot has been renovated and redesigned here. The 146 rooms and suites also feature modern interiors as well as regional materials such as terracotta, copper, oak and bronze tones reminiscent of grains, grapes and olives.
The gastronomic experience in the Tuscan restaurant Olivina, which appeals to all the senses in terms of both cuisine and ambience, is unforgettable. We also tried the traditional pizzeria Il Rosmarino, the Ecrù bar, the Giglio Blu by the pool for snacks and light meals and the elegant Country Clubhouse by the golf course. The Castelfalfi Golf Club is said to be one of the largest and most beautiful in Italy. Its 27 holes are nestled in the Tuscan countryside with views of the imposing Castello and the mountains of Volterra.
A medieval village with the best wine
After these multi-cultural days of adventure, we were looking forward to some peace and quiet in an idyllic mountain village and found it after an hour and a half's drive in the medieval village of Borgo San Felice just a few kilometers from Castelnuovo Berardenga and Siena. Everyone who arrives here immediately succumbs to the charm of this area, which is surrounded by 685 hectares of untouched forests and Chianti hills. Be it the splendid flowers at the entrance with bougainvilleas in all colors, the stone houses, patios, the chapel, the winery and the gardens all around. It all looks like a village, but is actually a 5-star Relais & Chateau hotel, which was preparing for an Indian wedding when we arrived.
The Borgo, as it presents itself today, was founded in the early Middle Ages, in the middle of the three most famous vineyards in Tuscany, for Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Bolgheri. We were able to taste them in the Michelin-starred restaurant Il Poggio Rosso, where chef Juan Quintero prepares Tuscan cuisine with Colombian influences. Part of the new strategy here is that you can also rent the entire village with its 29 rooms and 31 suites, as well as two remote villas for weddings and various celebrations. All the rooms are spread across different buildings, each with a different ambience but in an elegant Mediterranean style. In summer, guests can meet here for a drink on the patio, have lunch in the Osteria del Grigio, swim in the pool, play tennis or pamper themselves in the wellness center.
All good things come in threes - at Castello del Nero
Our third destination also took us to the Barberino Tavarnello area, where the Castello del Nero by COMO is located in the middle of the Chianti wine region with views of olive groves and vineyards. We learned that the Florentine Del Nero family had a country castle built on 300 hectares of land as early as the 12th century. This passed to the Torrigiani family at the beginning of the 19th century. Today, the 5-star luxury hotel has 50 guest rooms, two restaurants and a spa. All rooms are individually designed, some elegant, opulent and with original frescoes on the walls, as in the Heritage Suite. The Tavarnelle suites, on the other hand, are dominated by modern purism in the colors gray and white. Here, too, we dined in the Michelin-starred restaurant "La Torre" in a former stable with delicacies based on Tuscan tradition and prepared with fresh, first-class ingredients. Breakfast is served here on the "Garden Terrace" and lunch in "La Taverna" or in the pool area. Aperitifs are served in the bar in the antique castle kitchen or on warm days on the Ferrari Terrace. As we had not planned a golf event here, the Shambala Spa with its extravagant treatments was of course the order of the day. An excursion to Siena or simply a stroll through the cypresses, olive groves and lush gardens surrounding the Castello was the relaxing end to our trip to the land of the Etruscans.
Further information:
Florence: www.feelflorence.it
Le Pavoniere Golf Club: www.pavoniere.it
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi: www.castelfalfi.com
Castelfalfi Golf Club: www.italien.golf.golf-club-castelfalfi-tosccana
Borgo San Felice: www.borgosanfelice.com
Castello del Nero by Como: www.comohotels.com
