Montenegro
If you believe the legend, then Montenegro owes its name to Venetian sailors, who apparently had the misfortune of arriving on a gloomy rainy day. If the weather had been fine, they certainly wouldn't have thought of the "land of black mountains". Because then you don't see negro here, but verde and also azzurro - and on the peaks sometimes
even a little bianco come la neve. If you are lost for words at the sheer wow factor, you can take a leaf out of Lord Byron's book, who wrote in his travel diary in 1809: "When our planet was formed, the most beautiful encounter between sea and land must have taken place on the Montenegrin coast. And when the pearls of nature were distributed, they were scattered with full hands in this area." They still shine there today, even if they are a little less bright in places such as Budva or Kotor, which are plagued by the mass tourism and cruise boom ... In any case, the almost 110 kilometers of coastline are still breathtakingly beautiful. However, if you want to discover them in summer, you will need plenty of time, good nerves and a rental car with decent air conditioning, as there is usually a constant traffic jam on the E80 coastal road between Ulcinj in the south and Herceg Novi in the north ...
A look at the small but international airport in Tivat, where private jets park wingtip to wingtip between the beginning of June and the end of August and charter helicopters are constantly on the move to the helipads of the luxury hotels or private yachts, reveals that there is another way (and it's also quite upscale). Speaking of "private yachts" - from the 143-long three-master "A" to the futuristic-looking mega yacht "Olivia O", which costs around 200 million dollars: some of the largest and most luxurious boats in the Mediterranean have made Montenegro their year-round home port. Many others visit regularly during the summer season - which is not only due to the clear water and spectacular scenery, but also to the tax and duty-free diesel fuel.
Montenegro & Moneten
In general, "Montenegro & money" is a topic in itself. It starts with the national currency. Although the mini-state is not (yet) part of the EU, the euro is the sole means of payment, as was the Deutschmark in previous years. Also interesting: a maximum of 15% income tax makes Montenegro extremely attractive as a main place of residence for financially strong foreigners from the UK, the USA, Switzerland and, more recently, increasingly from Turkey. Which brings us to real estate projects such as Porto Montenegro, Portonovi or Luštica Bay. Built in some of the most beautiful locations in the Bay of Kotor, they not only entice with luxury hotels, designer labels and moorings, but also with the coveted permanent residence permit for the tax office.
Cevapcici meets fusion cuisine
What the retort towns lack in local color,-- they make up for with cosmopolitan flair and upscale culinary offerings. The branches of trendy Asian fusion restaurants such as Maya Bay in Porto Montenegro, Tapasake in Portonovi or Sumosan in Dukley are particularly popular with gourmets. But you can also find them in London, Monaco or Dubai. Then why not pay a visit to the Tangja barbecue restaurant located directly on the E65 in Kotor, where backpackers and yacht owners stand peacefully together in the meter-long queue and two-star chef Tim Raue once ate the "juiciest cevapcici of my life, crispy grilled and dripping with fat, on cloudy, tender white bread with a deliciously sour white cabbage salad and a divinely sweet and spicy ajvar sauce". Or you can travel to the other end of the Bay of Kotor, where Lazar atoni serves wild asparagus salad, black risotto or octopus breaded in polenta in an old mill near Morinj www.catovica-mlini.com.Basically, however, you can eat well and enjoyably in Montenegro in any konoba, no matter how simple, from which charcoal-black smoke is coming out of the top - and for little money.
This is especially true if you head from the sea towards the mountains, where the streams of tourists usually stop after the first steep and sharp hairpin bends. Highlights in the karstic hinterland include the highest mausoleum and the second deepest canyon in the world. From the tomb of the revered Prince-Bishop Petar I. Petrovi-Njegoš at a panoramic 1,752 m to the depths of the Tara Gorge, there are no less than 3,000 meters of altitude to cover. If you feel like you're in a movie, you're not mistaken. Several Winnetou films were shot in the fascinating landscapes of the Durmitor and Loven National Parks, as well as Angelina Jolie's directorial debut "Love in Times of War" and the spy thriller "The November Man" with then-husband Brad Pitt.
The Hotel Bianca in the Kolašin ski resort would certainly also make a first-class film set www.biancaresort.com.With its exterior façade in the style of Yugoslavian brutalism and an interior reminiscent of a Canadian hunting lodge, it is not only one of the most unusual addresses in the country, but also one of the most sought-after by international hotel investors. Only about an hour's drive from the coast, Kolašin offers 45 kilometers of slopes with relatively reliable snow conditions between December and April, which makes Montenegro even more attractive as a year-round destination. Swissôtel and Sheraton already have their own hotels on site. Some (ultra) luxury brands are also said to be waiting in the wings. Admittedly, Montenegro is no longer an "insider tip". However, the small state on the eastern Adriatic remains an attractive and in many places still untouched alternative to the Côte d'Azur & Co.
Fläche
13.812 km2
Food in Montenegro - variety from fish to game
Montenegro's cuisine is Mediterranean in style. A lot of fresh
fish and lamb are eaten. The most popular dishes include
Carp with onions, apples, prunes and quinces, fish soup, grilled eel
grilled eel, lamb in milk and Turkish honey for dessert,
caramel pudding and nuts with honey.
A foray through the culinary landscapes of the small state stops at the Mediterranean specialties.
the Mediterranean specialties of the coastal towns, where fish (ribe) is
Fish (ribe) adorns the menus everywhere - grilled, boiled or as a stew. Just as much wine is grown in Montenegro. In addition, the country's own
fruit brandies are distilled. The Montenegrin grape brandy is particularly popular.
grape brandy is particularly popular.
Montenegro Bar - A toast to coziness
Up until now, Montenegro has not necessarily had
nightlife in Montenegro, but you still don't have to go to bed at
have to go to bed at 9 pm. The places that have been completely
spared from tourism do not actually offer any entertainment or nightlife
or nightlife options on site. At best there is a café or a restaurant
restaurant that can be visited in the evening, but not even that is
safe. Here you can still chat in the evening, have a drink
and assume that the restaurant will only close when you want to leave.
want to leave. The tourist resorts on the coast have
of course cater to the needs of their guests and offer evening
and offer evening events on a smaller but very pleasant scale. You will
bars, dance halls and of course pubs
ARRIVAL
During the summer months, both Austrian Airlines and Eurowings offer non-stop flights to Tivat.
connections to Tivat in the program. As an alternative to the small Mediterranean airport in the Bay of Kotor, there are the airports of Podgorica and Dubrovnik. If you want to continue from Dubrovnik in a hire car, you should check in advance whether the contract conditions allow you to cross the border!
www.austrian.com www.eurowings.com
BEST TIME OF YEAR
The weather on the Montenegrin Adriatic coast is mild and makes it possible to
beach holiday until the end of October/beginning of November. May/June and September/October are ideal for active vacationers who also want to go on tours into the mountainous hinterland.
ON THE ROAD
A rental car is highly recommended - even if the miles of traffic jams on the coastal road in summer make you desperate.
on the coastal road in summer can be exasperating.
ADRIATIC COAST & BAY OF KOTOR
■ Budva
A popular vacation destination, especially among British and Eastern European budget tourists, with numerous high-rise hotel buildings. However, the idyllic old town with restaurants, local designer boutiques and a theater festival in summer is well worth a visit. During the day, small boats run between the port of Budva and the offshore rocky island of Sv. Nikola with its dense jungle greenery and three pretty beaches.
■ Sveti Stefan
A bitter legal dispute has been raging for years between the state and the luxury hotel chain Aman, which operates an ultra-exclusive resort on the small fishing island, over Montenegro's most photographed motif. It is still not possible to book rooms and suites, but it is possible to visit. However, you can save yourself the 25 euros entrance fee. A snapshot from the coastal road is all you need.
■ Tivat
Long decried as Kotor's ugly stepsister, Tivat has really come into its own in recent years. This is mainly thanks to the Porto Montenegro waterfront project, which has brought money and glamor. From the small lighthouse on Ponta Seljanovo, you have a great view of the mountains, bay and mega yachts.
■ Luštica
The peninsula stretches from the Grbalj plain to the village of Rose and has some of the most beautiful bays, beaches and diving spots in the country. Most of them are best reached by private boat, which can be chartered at a reasonable price with or without a skipper.
■ Herceg Novi
The second tourist stronghold in the country after Budva. Located not far from the Croatian border, you can stroll through the old town surrounded by a fortified wall or visit Villa Galeb, Tito's summer residence with bunker, spa and ballroom, which has been preserved in its original state to this day.
■ Perast
A miniature town situated on a headland in the inner bay with magnificent palazzi and two offshore islands. One is home to the Dominican monastery of St. Dorda. On the other is a pilgrimage church with hundreds of votive tablets. Gospa od Škrplja, as the tiny islet is called, was artificially created over centuries by sinking old ships and passing sailors throwing stones into the sea.
■ Kotor
A picture-book town with plenty of Italian flair - and even more day tourists. Especially the many cruise passengers who disembark directly opposite the old fortress wall make the alleyways crowded during the day. Tip: Before dawn
Before dawn, climb the 1,350 steps up to the fortress and enjoy the sunrise 280 meters above the bay! Back in the city, it's worth visiting the farmers' market afterwards. Long sleepers can instead check www.cruisetimetables.combefore their visit to see which ship with lots of passengers docks in Kotor and choose an alternative date if necessary.
EXTRATOURS
For adventurers: One of the most spectacular rail routes in the world runs from Bar on the Adriatic coast to Belgrade. The 476 km route through the mountains and over impressively high bridges
the trains take around eleven hours.
For active people: the Bay of Kotor can be easily circumnavigated by (e-)bike. The route is around 50 km long and mostly flat. It is impossible to pedal on the way because the route always
along the water. Those who prefer to follow historical trails instead will find numerous military paths around Kotor
but there are also numerous military paths from the Austro-Hungarian era that lead past fortress ruins and small villages to panoramic points.
For connoisseurs: An impressive half-day tour by rental car leads from Budva through the mountains to Kotor. Start at the large traffic circle where the panoramic road M-2.3 branches off towards Centinje. The old capital and royal residence at an altitude of 650 m still likes to bask in the glory of times gone by - as the polished brass signs on the former embassies of France, Bulgaria and Russia remind us. You should take plenty of time for the subsequent stage through the Lovćen National Park - because of the panoramic views and because of the mounted cattle herders who sometimes come out to meet you. The highlight and conclusion of the almost 80 km long tour are the hairpin bends that lead back to the sea - and sometimes require a maneuver or two.
SHOPPING
International designer boutiques can be found mainly in Porto Montenegro. Otherwise, culinary souvenirs such as ham, cheese, honey, truffles and first-class olive oils are well worth buying.
CULINARY
Fine(r) dining is mostly limited to the restaurants in the large luxury hotels. However, you can also dine excellently in the many konobas, where fresh fish and grilled meat are served. Around the Bay of Kotor, you will also find numerous oyster and mussel stands right by the water - just look out for the relevant signs. One of the best addresses for a wine tasting, where delicious snacks are also served, is the Savina Winery high above Herceg Novi (booking is essential).
www.castelsavina.me
GENERAL INFO
www.montenegro.travel
Hotels
