One&Only Portonovi

Directly at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor, where the sea is only a few hundred meters wide and the mountains opposite seem close enough to touch, lies Portonovi, a major project costing billions with almost 300 luxury residential units and a mega yacht marina. In the past, the Montenegrin navy built warships on the same site - and kept a watchful eye to ensure that no attackers could approach by sea. The luxury hotel brand One&Only probably had other strategic goals in mind when it opened its first hotel on European soil here in 2021. Although "hotel" is an understatement at this point, as the One&Only Portonovi is more of a neo-Venetian palace with huge gardens, a jetty, private villas, a beach as fine as powdered sugar and one of the most spectacular spas in the Mediterranean.

It's my second visit since the opening three years ago, and you can tell that some things have been tweaked. It's a shame that the glass fireplaces have disappeared from all the rooms and suites. It's nice to see that the culinary offerings have evolved in the meantime and are now at a top level.

Impressive: the breakfast selection at La Veranda. Delicious: my outdoor lunch with beach club flair at Tapasake with wagyu gyoza, Japanese paella and mango asparagus rolls. Grande Amore: a candlelit dinner on the Sabia terrace with spaghetti al tonno,
chicken with lardo di colonnata and torta caprese for dessert.

One could almost feel sorry for those guests who have booked one of the multi-day detox packages at One&Only Portonovi based on the Chenot method, which includes medical consultations, check-ups, analyses and high-tech treatments as well as a strict diet.

Whether detoxing in the 4,000 m2 spa or simply relaxing on the beach or in the garden: there is probably no other hotel along the entire Adriatic coast that offers both at such a high level and in such a unique setting.

TEXT: Jörg Bertram