Bali: Island of gods & contrasts

Tourism is like fire. You can use it to cook a meal or burn down your house": Admittedly, the saying does not originally come from Bali, but from Sri Lanka. Unfortunately, 4,000 km further south-east, it is now at least as valid. Especially in Bali's capital Denpasar and around Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Ubud, the former island of the gods has long since become an exotic forecourt to hell - loud, dirty and permanently congested thanks to the almost non-existent public transport or functioning infrastructure. No wonder, then, that the average speed of a cab in the south of the island measured over the year is just 8.4 km per hour (!) ...

You can accept all this with the composure of the Balinese or ask yourself when those responsible for tourism will finally realize that art, culture and nature are a more sustainable way of earning money than cheap commerce, coma-drinking Australians and rich Russians, who bang one concrete nightmare after another against the rocky coast, especially on the Bukit Peninsula.

How did it come about that Bali first became a destination of longing for dropouts and then a mass destination for everyone? Some claim that the opening of Ngurah Rai International Airport in 1970 was the trigger for the run on the island. Others say that the first tourist excesses began with Julia Roberts and the esoteric monzette "Eat, Pray, Love", which showered cinema screens around the world with sugary-sweet Bali images in 2010. And then there are those who blame the digital nomads and all the influencers who settled in Bali during and after the pandemic and from whose selfies no island monkey is safe anymore for the misery. Ultimately, they're all right - and then again, they're not. The German-Russian artist Walter Spies, the real founder of the Bali myth, arrived in Ubud much earlier - in 1927 to be precise. As a musician and first-class painter, he caused just as much of a stir back then as he did as a gifted multiplier who repeatedly succeeded in bringing civilization-weary writers, stars and socialites such as Charlie Chaplin, Vicki Baum and Barbara Hutton to his mountain cottage in the shadow of Gunung Agung, Bali's sacred mountain. If you want to do the same as the celebrities of yesteryear, take a look at the Airbnb website. Rooms in Villa Iseh, built by Spies, are available from 150 dollars a night - including a pool, a fantastic view and the knowledge of previous tenants such as Mick Jagger or David Bowie (next available dates in February 2026).

Not a bad deal when you also consider that the former artists' retreat is located in the small village of Sidemen, which island connoisseurs claim is reminiscent of the "Ubud of 20 years ago". If you want to see and experience even more "good old Bali", continue from Sidemen to Desa Adat Tenganan Pegringsingan, a place where time really does stand still. The 300 villagers belong to the Bali Aga people, who are descended from the original inhabitants of Bali and still live according to strict rules and rituals. As the rich "old Balinese" let "simple" farmers from the neighboring communities work for them in their rice fields, they can devote themselves entirely to their countless religious duties or to weaving precious and artistic Geringsing fabrics. These are created using a highly complex double-knit technique that is only mastered in one village in India and another in Japan, apart from Adat Tenganan Pegringsingan. The production of one meter of fabric can take several years - the prices are correspondingly high. It pays to bargain, even if no original, no matter how small, is available for less than 800 dollars.

Fine fabrics are available from 800 dollars

If you feel like cooling off after a visit to the village, you are spoiled for choice: Virgin Beach, around 20 minutes away, is one of the most beautiful in south-east Bali. Just as quickly accessible is the Gembleng waterfall in Tri Eka Buna with several natural pools that invite you to take a dip and make even the most spectacular hotel infinity pools on the island seem rather unspectacular. Speaking of "hotel infinity pools": not a single one of the more than 100 (!) 5-star hotels on the island seems to manage without them. They are often even standard in the lower suite categories, which certainly contributes to the first-class reputation of the island's hotel industry. From A for "Aman Resorts" to W for "W", the lifestyle and design-oriented luxury brand from Marriott: any hotel brand that takes itself seriously has a presence in Bali - or at least an interest, such as Anantara, Kempinski, Mandarin Oriental and Waldorf Astoria, among others, which will be opening their first or further hotels on the island within the next two years.

However, a new generation of eco-resorts also stands for luxury at the highest level, impressively proving that glamor can also be green and good for the conscience. Alongside the Buahan, A Banyan Tree Escape and the Capella Ubud, the Munduk Moding Plantation Resort on a coffee plantation in the Highlands is one of the most successful examples. And then there's the Lost Lindenberg, which even proactively encourages its guests to collect garbage together on the dream beach once a week and invites them to enjoy gin and tonics on the terrace with a view over the mangroves to the sea after their work is done. Let's hope that examples like this set a precedent. Then the fire that tourism has ignited on the island can not only be used to cook food, but also to keep the Bali myth alive for a long time to come.

Hotel tips:

The Legian Seminyak, Bali

Opened in 1996 directly on the golden yellow beach of Seminyak, The Legian is still one of the leading 5* hotels on the island - and one of the most exclusive oases of peace in the tourist stronghold. Although the 67 suites all have to make do without private pools, they exude a great deal of charm. Those who prefer more luxury and intimacy can book into The Club by The Legian and enjoy their own 10-metre pool, butler service and access to the club lounge. Top: the culinary offerings with Rijsttafel-Tuesday, Seafood-Friday and BBQ-Saturday. A dream: the extensive gardens and the large pool, which seems to flow into the sea over three levels. www.lhm-hotels.com

COMO Shambala Estate

Check in and relax is the motto at Como Shambala Estate, a multi-award-winning wellness resort near Ubud. Guests stay in suites or pool villas and residences, some of which even have a private treatment room for massages and other treatments and are spread over almost 10 hectares of jungle. The spa concept at COMO Shambala Estate is holistic and tailor-made. The focus is on so-called "Wellness Paths" lasting three to ten days, which go far beyond the usual offer and include nutritional coaching, sleep counseling or high-tech treatments such as a stay in a "Hyperbaric Oxygen" chamber.
www.comohotels.com

Amandari

If you say A for Aman, you can expect three ultra-luxurious resorts in B for Bali. Our favorite is Amandari, built in the style of a Balinese village on the banks of the Ayang River near Ubud. Built as one of the very first Amans, you can still feel the very special esprit that characterizes the exclusive hotel and resort group. At the Amandari, hospitality that is lived and loved meets perfection down to the last detail and friendly local color. Also typical of the Amandari: the varied experience program with painting courses, dance and gamelan classes as well as bike tours and mountain hikes. Even the smallest suite at the Amandari measures 250 m2, while the largest villa boasts an impressive 1,500 m2 and two dedicated service staff. www.aman.com

Four Season Jimbaran

Paradise found? Not quite, because like many hotels and resorts in Jimbaran, the Four Seasons is located within sight (but not within earshot) of Denpasar airport, which is a 20-minute cab ride away. However, it is hard to criticize this traditional hotel more. Gourmets get their money's worth in five first-class outlets. The Sundara is particularly spectacular, with a 57-metre pool in front of the terrace and a culinary focus on everything that can be smoked or grilled (foie gras ganache or a cocoa bean sorbet included). The 147 villas, which are spread across the hotel grounds like a village and are up to 2,200 m2 in size, are also exceptionally tasteful.
www.fourseasons.com

Bvlgari Resort Bali

When Bvlgari Bali opened in 2006, it was considered the ultimate in luxury. With services such as round-the-clock breakfast or included aperitivo, the resort is now aiming to return to the good old days. The location on the rocky south coast of Bali is as spectacular today as it was back then. The hotel's Il Ristorante - Niko Romito is one of the best Italian restaurants in Indonesia. The Bvlgari boutique with jewelry from the Roman luxury label is also a jewel. Whether a one-bedroom villa or a five-bedroom mansion (with elevator, waterfall and two pools), all the retreats share a breathtaking view and the fact that a piece of sinfully expensive Bvlgari chocolate lies on the pillow in the evening.
www.bulgarihotels.com

Highlights

Connoisseur special tip:
Pura Luhur on Mount Batukaru
This little-visited temple complex in the middle of the tropical jungle is one of the most charming in Bali. At an altitude of 1000 meters, it is often shrouded in mist, making the atmosphere truly mystical. Founded in the 11th century, it is also one of the oldest. Even the drive there through rice terraces with a great view is worthwhile.
For the way back, you should choose the spectacular route through steep hills via Jatiluwih (= beautiful view) and Pacung.

DIPLOMATISCHE VERTRETUNGEN

in Germany
Indonesian Embassy
Lehrter Straße 16-17, 10557 Berlin, Germany
Phone: +49 30 47807200
Fax: +49 30 44737142
E-mail: info@botschaft-indonesien.de
www.kemlu.go.id

in Austria
Indonesian Embassy, Gustav-Tszhermak-Gasse 5-7, 1180 Vienna, Austria
Phone: +43 1 476230
Fax: +43 1 4790557
www.kbriwina.at

in Switzerland
Indonesian Embassy
Elfenauweg 51, 3006 Bern, Switzerland
Phone: +41 31 352098385
Fax: +41 31 3516765
E-mail: bern.kbri@kemlu.go.id
www.kemlu.go.id

Lage

Indonesien

Fläche

5780 km2

Bevölkerung

4,225 Millionen Einwohner; 95 % ethnische Balinesen plus javanesische Minderheit

Sprache

Bahasa Bali, Bahasa Indonesia plus Englisch in den Touristengebieten

Anreise

Als einzige Airline aus dem EU-Raum fliegt KLM nonstop ab Amsterdam nach Bali. Empfehlenswert sind die Umsteigeverbindungen mit Turkish Airlines ab vielen Airports in D, A und CH über Istanbul
oder mit Singapore Airlines ab Frankfurt oder Zürich via Singapur. Darüber hinaus wird Bali auch täglich von den meisten Golf-Carrieren angeflogen.

www.klm.com www.turkishairlines.com www.singaporeair.com

Größte Stadt

Denpasar

Hauptstadt

Denpasar

Religion

95 % Balinese Hindus plus Muslim and Christian minorities

Weather

8° südlich des Äquators liegt Bali in der tropischen Klimazone. Die Durchschnittstemperatur während des ganzen Jahres beträgt 30 °C.

Die Regenzeit beginnt im Oktober und endet im März. Die sonnigsten und trockensten Monate sind von April bis September.

Durchaus sind auch in der trockenen Jahreszeit kurze, aber warme Regenschauer zu erwarten.

Beste Reisezeit

von April bis September

Klima

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
Max. Temperaturen	31	31	31	32	31	31	30	30	31	31	32	31
Min. Temperaturen	24	24	23	23	23	22	22	22	23	23	24	24
Sonnenstunden	5	5	5	6	7	7	7	8	7	7	6	6
Regentage	15	12	10	6	5	5	4	3	2	5	8	13
Wassertemperatur	28	28	28	28	28	27	27	27	27	28	28	29

Zeitverschiebung

MEZ: +7 Stunden

Währung

Indonesische Rupiah (IRP), 13.000 IRP = 1 US$, 14.000 IRP = 1 Euro

Visa

Visumspflicht. Teilweise "visa-upon-arrival". Nähere Infos direkt bei Ihrer Botschaft

Vaccinations

There is no compulsory vaccination for Bali. Tetanus, polio, diphtheria and hepatitis B vaccinations are officially recommended. There is no malaria in Bali. More information from the Institute for Tropical Medicine.