Bangkok
Nice, but not enough to really discover the metropolis of millions on the Chao Phraya, says our
author, who was out and about between cookshops and gourmet restaurants, shopping temples and Buddha shrines.
At first glance Bangkok seems chaotic. At second glance, too. But that is precisely what makes this lively, vibrant metropolis of 8 million - or perhaps 12 million - so charming. The city on the Chao Phraya River with its mixture of tradition and hyper-modernity, hustle and bustle and serenity, the exotic and the banal, the meditative and the extroverted, polarizes and fascinates with its complexity and seemingly irreconcilable opposites. Nevertheless, it continues to cast a spell over me.
In the ranking (Global Destination Cities Index) of the most popular cities in the world, Bangkok is the frontrunner with more than 22 million visitors - number 1. The Thai metropolis is known for its rich cultural heritage, XXL shopping, nightlife and an exciting gastronomic scene that has long since moved on from street food to Michelin-starred cuisine. But it's not just the culinary scene in Thailand's capital that is changing at a dizzying pace, the skyline is also growing as you look. Along the Chao Phraya, the omnipresent river of kings that runs through Bangkok like a main artery, the golden domes and roofs of centuries-old temples glitter in the morning mist, competing with avant-garde, glass skyscrapers. The face of the city is currently changing more than ever before here by the river. South of the hyper-luxury mall ICONSIAM, which opened at the end of last year on the east bank, new designer residential towers with 70 floors and more are rising into the sky.
City of angels and contrasts
Brand new high-end hotels such as Four Seasons and Capella will open their doors on the riverbank early next year. A new creative district has developed to the right and left of the river. The creative scene has settled in old colonial buildings and renovated warehouses with galleries, restaurants, cafés, start-ups and individual and innovative design and interior stores. Cool lifestyle districts such as Jam Factory and Lhong1919 have emerged.
"One night in Bangkok" is not enough. It should be a few days, because there is so much to discover. Sightseeing classics include the Grand Palace with its magnificent architecture, Wat Phra Kaeo, the temple of the legendary Emerald Buddha, Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, and Wat Pho with its mighty reclining Buddha - 46 meters long and made entirely of gold. You should throw a few baht into the silver bowls behind his back - this is said to promote good karma and a happy rebirth. Like Munich's English Garden or Central Park in New York, the lake-filled Lumphini Park is the green lung of the city. In the morning, people jog, cycle or do tai chi. In the evenings, bands perform on a stage and rock the park. The new Bangkok is more likely to be discovered along Sukhumvit Road, a large street that stretches endlessly towards the south-east. Luxury malls, countless chic bars, clubs and restaurants are lined up here. Further east is the hip district of Thonglor - one of the most sought-after residential areas for well-heeled Thais and expats with a cool bar and gallery scene, gourmet temples, cafés and community malls.
Other must-sees & -dos are the lively Chinatown, the exuberant flower market, which may soon no longer exist, or a boat trip through the klongs, e.g. to the Baan Silapin artists' house. Recommended means of transport are the express boat on the Chao Phraya and - wherever possible - the Skytrain, which floats air-conditioned on high concrete stilts over the permanent traffic jam - while a cab can take half an hour to travel one kilometer. The more daring can plunge into the hustle and bustle in a tuk tuk, which is guaranteed to fit through the eye of every needle, and are happy to accept a higher adrenaline level in return. If you then need to relax, treat yourself to a massage at the Footmaster in Amarin Plaza or at Wat Pho, the traditional massage school in Bangkok's oldest temple.
Gourmet kitchens & temples
Clouds of chili waft from cookshops and woks . It smells of coriander and lemongrass. Food is a passion of the Thais. It is not for nothing that Thai cuisine is one of the best in the world. Bangkok's culinary scene is now on a par with established gourmet destinations such as Tokyo or Hong Kong. The choice of restaurants is limitless and ranges from the hyped star temple Canvas to Le Du, Indigo or the Supanniga Eating Room to Sala Rim Naam in the Oriental and Thiptara in the Peninsula Hotel. And it wouldn't be surprising if you wanted to sign up for a cooking class immediately after enjoying your meal. Many hotels and restaurants also have their own cooking schools. Renovated and spruced up according to state-of-the-art criteria, hotel legends such as the famous Mandarin Oriental or the classically beautiful Sukhothai shine in new splendor. Hardly any other metropolis is richer in luxury hotels than Bangkok and new hotels are still being added.
If you have always wanted to see the "City of Angels" , as Bangkok is called, from heavenly heights, head up to the Sky Walk of the 314-metre-high King Power Mahanakhon (Bangkok's second tallest building) - the 360-degree view is breathtaking and the glass platform promises pure adrenaline. The glamorous star among the luxury shopping malls is the ICONSIAM Mall, which was opened last year by HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the King's sister - Thailand's largest mall with a fabulous investment volume of 1.6 billion dollars. With its impressive architecture directly on the Chao Phraya and the limitless range of art, culture and lifestyle activities on offer, even shopping paradises such as Dubai or London seem boring. Here you can buy a Porsche or Maserati sports car to match your Gucci silk skirt. But shopping temples such as EmQuartier, Emporium, Central Embassy and Siam Paragon, where fashion by Dior, Armani and Jimmy Choo is just as trendy as in Paris or Milan, also make the hearts of all shopping aficionados and fashionistas beat faster. The famous night markets with guaranteed fake Rolexes, Pradas and Tods are cheaper. For antiques and fine souvenirs, the elegant River City on the Chao Phraya is the place to be.
Shop till you drop
If you are looking for a two-tonne Buddha for your garden at home or your loft, you are guaranteed to find it at Bamrung Muang, where Bangkok's monks also shop. For market lovers with a penchant for haggling, the gigantic Chatuchak Market is an absolute must at the weekend with its incredibly diverse range of goods: a labyrinth of alleyways and aisles with crowds and shuffling along the thousands of stalls, where the unusual, rare and expensive are sold alongside banal everyday items, fake luxury brands, spices and even pets. Thais say that if you can't find what you're looking for here, you won't find it anywhere else in Thailand. In addition to culture and shopping, you should definitely also experience Bangkok's green side and play a round of golf. There are more than 50 excellent courses in and around Bangkok, designed by renowned golf course designers such as Jack Nicklaus, Nick Faldo and Greg Norman. The private Thai Country Club, which is under Peninsula management, is one of the best courses in the country. Guests of the Peninsula Hotel can fly directly from the hotel to the golf course by helicopter, bypassing the constant rush hour traffic jams.
Bangkok's nightlife is famous, sometimes infamous and definitely overwhelming. If you want to experience nightlife in Thailand's capital, you can't miss the clubs: The Sing Sing Theater, a Hollywood version of the 1930s in Shanghai, was created by Ashley Sutton with lots of red light, lanterns and a sensational interior design - the ultimate club experience with DJs and live musicians on Sukhumvit Road. This is where the young Thai society parties, which you can also meet in the trendy bars in Thonglor. A relaxed start to the evening always begins in one of the many spectacular rooftop bars at dizzying heights. We sip a cocktail recommended by the beautiful waitress and watch as the glowing red sun disappears behind the Bangkok skyline. The city at our feet begins to sparkle and glow.
Text: Heike Neuenburg
Bangkok fascinates with a world between modern glass facades and the golden roofs of Buddhist temples.
! Photo: © shutterstock!
Highlights
Connoisseur special tip:
Visit the Pak Klong Talat flower and spice market, the visual and olfactory impressions are breathtaking. Here you can see all of Thailand's blossom and flower glories - for sale by the kilo and bag at ridiculously low prices.
www.thailandtourismus.de
And if you want to relax after so many tourist activities, then we recommend the Oriental Hotel's spa, for example, which also serves external guests by appointment. A massage in this stylish old Thai building, to which you are taken by barge across the river from the hotel's main building,
is an experience!
www.oriental.com
DIPLOMATISCHE VERTRETUNGEN
in Germany
Royal Thai Embassy
Lepsiusstrasse 64/66, 12163 Berlin, Germany
Phone: +49 30 794810
Fax: +49 30 79481511
E-mail: general@thaiembassy.de
www.thaiembassy.de
in Austria
Embassy of the Kingdom of Thailand in Austria
Cottagegasse 48, 1180 Vienna, Austria
Phone: +43 1 4783335
Fax: +43 1 4782907
E-Mail: embassy@thaivienna.at
www.thaiembassy.at
in Switzerland
Royal Thai Consulate General
Löwenstrasse 42, 8021 Zurich, Switzerland
Phone: +41 43 3447000
Fax: +41 43 3447001
E-mail: info@thai-consulate.at
www.thai-consulate.ch
Lage
Thailand
Fläche
513 115 km² (Bangkok 1 569 km²)
Bevölkerung
69 Mio
Anreise
Der Airport Suvarnabhumi wird mehrmals täglich ab Frankfurt, München, Wien oder Zürich angeflogen. Für den Weg in die Stadt sollte man 45-60 Min. rechnen.
Hauptstadt
Bangkok
Religion
Theravada Buddhism
Weather
Bangkok befindet sich in der tropischen Klimazone.Hauptregenzeit ist zwischen Mai und Oktober, in einzelnen Stadtgebieten muss im September und Oktober mit Überschwemmungen gerechnet werden. März und April sind die heißesten und anstrengendsten Monate in Bangkok.
Beste Reisezeit
Die Monate November bis Februar entsprechen einem mitteleuropäischem Traumsommer
Klima
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
| Max. Temperaturen | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 | 31 | 31 |
| Min. Temperaturen | 20 | 23 | 24 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 24 | 24 | 23 | 20 |
| Sonnenstunden | 8 | 8 | 8 | 10 | 8 | 6 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| Regentage | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 15 | 17 | 13 | 4 | 1 |
Zeitverschiebung
MEZ +6 Stunden (während der europäischen Sommerzeit +5)
Währung
Bhat
Visa
Ein Aufenthalt ohne Visum ist bis zu 30 Tage möglich. Der Reisepass muss mindestens noch sechs Monate gültig sein. Nähere Informationen bei Ihrer Botschaft.
Vaccinations
No special vaccinations are required and Bangkok is considered malaria-free.
Eating Bangkok - a real treat
Changing image: Bangkok's wickedness has given way to a hip and trendy atmosphere. However, many travelers are unaware that the Thai metropolis also offers excellent food - both international and local creations.
The Breeze on the 51st floor of the State Tower in the Lebua Hotel is a truly world-class location with a fantastic design and great cuisine. The outdoor terrace in particular, with its glass bridge and cascading lights, bears comparison even with similar restaurants in Las Vegas. There are several tasting menus on the menu, the wine cellar is huge, the cuisine is excellent, but the prices are sinfully high by Thai standards.
The Shirocco, located even higher - on the 63rd floor - is even bigger and better known. But beware: it is very "touristy" due to its exposed boxes.
Bangkok is a hot spot for fans of great views while dining. Vertigo, which takes up the entire roof of the 61-storey Banyan Tree Hotel, is almost worth a trip to Bangkok on its own. You seem to float above Bangkok at night like on an ocean liner. It is often thought that chic viewpoints have other shortcomings. Not so in this case! Excellent food, especially the steaks and grilled dishes are highly recommended, and outstanding service rounds off the experience. A must on your visit to Bangkok - book early!
Lord Jim's in the Oriental Hotel: It goes without saying that a legendary hotel like the Oriental also has excellent restaurants. The French Normandie is said to be the most expensive restaurant in Thailand. And it is well known that French food is also very good in Europe. That's why I recommend Lord Jim's, probably one of the best fish restaurants in the world. The atmosphere is unusually modern for the Oriental. The selection of oysters, shellfish and fish is huge, everything is fresh and you can choose and taste the goods yourself. Plus the view of the Chao Phraya River - an experience!
Not surprisingly, you can also eat pretty good Thai food in Bangkok - even in the luxury hotels at surprisingly civilized prices. One of the best known is the Salathip in the Shangri-La Hotel in a pavilion by the river, where you can not only enjoy authentic Thai cuisine, but also Thai temple dancing.
Also located by the river is Thiptara, which roughly translates as "heaven by the water". In the restaurant of the Peninsula Hotel, the motto for dinner is "A Relaxing Evening at the Thai Home". To fulfill this claim, 5 Thai salas (handcrafted teak pavilions) have been moved into the garden of the Peninsula Hotel. Classical Thai background music rounds off the experience.
Outside the hotels, we recommend the Baan Khanitha & Gallery or - perhaps for a Vietnamese experience - Le Dalat.
Lovers of the finest French cuisine will also find their fulfillment in Bangkok: Ma Maison in the Swissotel or Le Normandie in the Oriental Hotel. All are above any suspicion of bad food.
Excellent steakhouses include the club-like New York Steakhouse in the JW Marriott, Prime in the Millennium Hilton and Hamilton's in the Dusit Thani Hotel.
For those who can't do without Italian cuisine, we recommend Giusto in Sukhumvit soi 23. This is the "in" Italian restaurant in Bangkok, so to speak.
And finally, a few "trendy and fancy places": Chester's in the Peninsula and Reflections in the Plaza Athénée. Eating while lying down, surrounded by beautiful people. Who can resist that? Even if, admittedly, the food is only a minor matter.
Nightlife in Bangkok - Loud, wild and fun
Bangkok's nightlife has a reputation for being wild and loud. But at the same time it is relaxed, safe, enjoyable and promises a lot of fun! Bangkok's nightlife has quickly established itself as Asia's capital of cool and offers a diverse nightlife scene, with excellent live music, good jazz clubs, ultra-cool bars, hip clubs and good restaurants. The venues have now all shed the dingy image that was once attached to them.
Sightseeing:
The musts
■ Sky Walk
Bangkok's highest viewing platform impresses with its glass floor and spectacular 360° view from a height of 310 m. Tip: Book tickets in advance via the website.
kingpowermahanakhon.co.th
■ Royal Palace & Wat Phra Kaeo
Did you know that Thailand's largest shrine, the so-called Emerald Buddha, in the Royal Palace is just 66 cm tall? Its robes are changed three times a year - a job that only the king himself is allowed to do.
■ Wat Pho
If you only want to visit one temple in Bangkok, you should choose the one of the Reclining Buddha. The magnificent statue measures an impressive 46 meters. Incidentally, Thailand's oldest massage school also resides in the large park of the complex.
www.watpho.com
■ Wat Arun
The Temple of Dawn is decorated with thousands of small porcelain tiles, and its location on the west bank of the Chao Phraya also has its charm.
■ Golden Mount & Wat Saket
318 steps lead up to this temple. The climb is worth it: magnificent view of Bangkok's old town
■ The Commons
Community mall in the hip district of Thonglor. "Food meets fashion" is the motto - and on several levels at once. www.thecommonsbkk.com
■ M.R. Kukrit's House
The estate of a former prime minister, consisting of five teak houses and a beautiful garden, is an oasis of tranquillity - and the perfect showpiece for anyone who wants to know how Bangkok's upper class once resided.
Another insider tip!
19 Soi Prapinit, South Sathorn Rd. Shopping
■ ICONSIAM
Thailand's largest, most expensive and most exclusive mall right on the Chao Phraya has just celebrated its first birthday.
www.iconsiam.com
■ EmQuartier
Also an architectural highlight: Complex consisting of 3 buildings with waterfall, gardens, international luxury labels and Thai designers, cinema, gym and the well-stocked bookstore Kinokunya.
www.emquartier.co.th
■ Siam Paragon
"The Pride of Bangkok"offers simply every luxury label on 400,000 m² (!).
www.siamparagon.co.th
■ Gaysorn Plaza
Noble, stylish and with its own starred restaurant "Paste", opposite the Erawan Shrine.
www.gaysornvillage.com
■ Central Embassy
Luxury lifestyle mall located on the site of the former British Embassy.
■ Central World Plaza
Mega-mall with 500 stores. www.centralworld.co.th
■ MBK
Indoor market feeling at the National Stadium: simple, affordable, trendy.
www.mbk-center.co.th
■ Chatuchak
Thailand's largest market, only open at weekends. Haggling is obligatory here!
www.chatuchak.org
■ Asiatique - The Riverfront
Night market on the Chao Phraya with countless stores, entertainment, restaurants and bars.
www.asiatiquethailand.com
■ Creative District
Located to the right and left of the Chao Phraya (Charoen Krung Rd & Charoen Nakorn Rd) with innovative, individual stores and galleries. www.creativedistrictbangkok.com
Art & Galleries
■ Sathorn 11 Art Space
Art gallery with hidden bar, participant of the 1st Bangkok Art Biennale.
www.sathorn11.com
■ Jim Thompson House Museum
An oasis of calm, full of art and antiques from the legendary silk merchant Jim Thompson, who once made Thai silk world-famous.
www.jimthompsonhouse.com
■ Atta gallery
Wearable art: modern jewelry creations by artists in the immediate vicinity of the French Embassy.
Rooftop bars
■ Mahanakhon Sky Bar
The latest star in the sky bar sky: the elegant interior was designed by Parisian architect Tristan Auer. The outdoor terrace was designed as an urban jungle above the clouds with lush greenery. The view is at least as breathtaking as the price of a cocktail.
mahanakhonbangkokskybar.com
■ Moon Bar
Classic at a lofty height (61st floor of the Banyantree Hotel) with a magnificent panoramic view. www.banyantree.com
■ Sky Bar
The Hangover cocktail on the menu is named after the Hollywood movie of the same name that was filmed here.
www.lebua.com
■ Sky Rooftop Bar & CRU Champagne Bar
The Centara Grand Hotel boasts two rooftop bars: On the 56th floor, the Red Sky Rooftop Bar offers a relaxed atmosphere under the stars with live jazz. If you want something even more exclusive and "higher up", visit the CRU Champagne Bar on the 59th floor - one of the highest champagne bars in the world. www.centarahotelsresorts.com
■ Hi-SO Rooftop Bar
Located in the SO/ Sofitel Hotel (29th floor), this romantic hideaway overlooks the greenery of Lumphini Park and the skyline beyond.
Meeting place for Thai stars
www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
■ Above Eleven
Popular rooftop bar in the Fraser Suites Hotel with hot music, cool cocktails and a relaxed atmosphere. Even if it rains, you can sit outside in the covered area.
Nightlife
■ Sing Sing Theater
Extravagant, flashy, mesmerizing - and definitely the ultimate nightclub experience! The fantasy party world of Australian star designer Ashley Sutton is an absolute in-thing.
www.singsingbangkok.com
■ Maggie Choo's
At the Novotel Bangkok Silom: sensual, spectacular, wicked. A mixture of club and jazz bar, a steep staircase leads down to a vaulted cellar, downstairs the decadence and vibe of the 1930s with séparées and velvet armchairs envelops you.
■ Teens of Thailand
Hyped bar in Chinatown with only 15 seats, listed among "Asia's 50 Best Bars".
76 Soi Nana in Yaowarat, Chinatown
■ Bamboo Bar
In the legendary Mandarin Oriental Hotel, still one of the best places for live jazz and cocktails after more than six decades. Crowned Thailand's best bar in 2018.
Sport
■ Alpine Golf & Sports CluB Located in northern Bangkok, this club is considered by insiders to be one of the best in the world.
www.alpinegolfclub.com
■ Muay Thai Gym
Perfect for anyone who has always wanted to try Thai boxing: At The Siam Hotel, you can book the 3.5-hour "Master Class & Retreat Package" with personal trainer, steam bath and subsequent massage.
www.thesiamhotel.com
■ Jogging in Lumphini Park
The 2.5 km run takes you through the green lung of the city, past outdoor gyms and Tai Chi classes. Best time: 18 h, when the national anthem plays in the park and a magical calm suddenly sets in.
Hotels
















































