Mr. & Ms. Connoisseur | #10

Thanks to Odysseus, an island is reinventing itself—surprise! Ithaca is located in Italy. We’re amazed by the ingenuity of corals, discover a gem in Austria’s theater summer, and enjoy a gourmet experience on Corfu.

On the Set of Homer’s Epic

For his latest epic, *The Odyssey*, Christopher Nolan assembled an extraordinary cast. Matt Damon, Tom Holland, Anne Hathaway, Robert Pattinson, Zendaya, Lupita Nyong’o, and Charlize Theron propelled the new cinematic format to blockbuster status; the film was shot using analog IMAX technology at multiple locations. For us, however, one location was particularly captivating: Favignana, the largest of the Aegadian Islands, seems as though it were created specifically for Homer’s Ithaca—archaic cliffs, unspoiled coastlines, hidden coves, and a Mediterranean light that transforms the journey from the town of Trapani on Sicily’s west coast into a cinematic experience.
Before the international film jet set descended upon Favignana, its rugged allure was known only to the initiated. Here, luxury meant cruising along dusty lanes on a bicycle, enjoying the turquoise waters while diving into a quiet cove, and savouring the lightness of being over pasta with tuna, capers, and tomatoes at the harbour come evening as the fishing boats returned. Whether the “Ithaka” of Nolan’s adaptation will evolve into the next luxury hotspot remains to be seen




In the meantime, three unforgettable experiences already await discerning visitors: The route to Cala Rossa winds past the jagged remnants of old quarries before the cove suddenly reveals itself. Between reddish cliffs, the water shimmers in shades of turquoise, emerald, and deep blue. The disused quarries resemble a massive amphitheater—a natural stage for heroes, gods, and odysseys. Those who brave the sometimes steep descent are rewarded with one of Italy’s most spectacular swimming spots.

Even more dramatic is Cala Bue Marino on the east coast: here, pale cliffs plunge dramatically into the sea, while caves and terraces bear silent witness to the former tuff quarrying. The water is so crystal-clear that every rock on the seabed is visible from the shore—heaven for snorkelers and swimmers, though shade is virtually nonexistent. On the tiny Isola Preveto off the southern coast—also a filming location—you will feel as though you have been transported thousands of years back to antiquity. A slender beach, barren cliffs, not a single modern building, and costumes and film equipment miles away.

https://favignana.de/insel

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###The Secret Architecture of Corals ###



Anyone who has observed corals in all their splendor and vulnerability is usually wearing diving goggles and fins. Now these colorful ambassadors of the sea can be admired from dry land: For what we saw in the tropical reef aquarium at Vienna’s Haus des Meeres is not just a spectacular display of color in a class of its own: Here, corals glow in green, pink, and violet; some tower like little trees, while others form compact mounds or gently move their tentacles in the water. Of course: Beneath the surface, every centimetre of habitat is fiercely contested. For behind the undulating underwater worlds lies a highly complex realm—one brimming with communication and surprising ingenuity—providing ample justification for lingering a little longer in front of the reef tanks. Two international studies, in which researchers from the Haus des Meeres participated, are currently demonstrating just how remarkably active reef-building stony corals are in shaping their environment. Using tiny hairs, known as cilia, they generate finely tuned water currents directly on their surface. These currents presumably help distribute oxygen and food, remove waste, and connect the individual polyps of a colony with one another. So the coral doesn’t simply wait for the sea to bring it something—it sets the water in motion itself.




Equally surprising is the struggle for space. Long-term observations reveal that these creatures do not expand their calcareous skeletons uniformly at all: some colonies deliberately push into open spaces, retract their growth margins when met with resistance, or erect veritable protective walls against neighboring species. Damaged areas are swiftly repaired—often with such efficiency that the colony survives uninterrupted. For Dr. Daniel Abed-Navandi, the deputy director, the results of his research prove that corals are not passive organisms: they can actively influence their immediate environment. Something we’re sure to keep in mind on our next dive.

Haus des Meeres – Aqua Terra Zoo Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz 1, 1060 Vienna Daily 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Website: www.haus-des-meeres.at

Gesehen

Reichenau: A Theater on Summer Retreat

Just an hour south of Vienna lies a landscape that remains surprisingly unknown to many travelers. In Reichenau an der Rax, the grandeur of the old Danube Monarchy, wildly romantic trails into the Höllental, sublime culinary experiences, and—yes!—a theater festival come together, one that interprets relevant German-language literature not as a museum piece but as a living part of the present. The fact that, incidentally, the Viennese bourgeoisie and the crème de la crème of Austrian acting gather annually in idyllic Reichenau for a festive rendezvous has turned a single swallow into an entire (century-long) summer: The Reichenau Festival will celebrate the theater’s 100th anniversary in 2026.




In the very place where Arthur Schnitzler, Stefan Zweig, and other prominent writers once spent their summer retreats, six productions developed specifically for Reichenau were recently on the program from July 1 through August 2. Particularly alluring for guests with a penchant for nostalgia is the chance to encounter authors who form part of our shared Central European cultural legacy. Arthur Schnitzler’s Reigen was presented in 2026 as a subtle social panorama exploring desire, power, and loneliness. Stefan Zweig’s *Twenty-Four Hours in the Life of a Woman* was directed by Gordon Greenberg, and Joseph Roth’s *The Legend of the Holy Drinker* by Alexandra Liedtke. And with *Die Fledermaus*, the very work that opened the Reichenau Theater in 1926 returned to the stage. Tolstoy’s “War and Peace,” directed by Philipp Hauß, was performed at the nearby legendary Südbahnhotel am Semmering: the halls of the now-defunct grand hotel, once a glamorous gathering place for Viennese high society, served as an exceptional setting for this story of love, war, and social upheaval. A visit to the theatre can effortlessly be paired with a refined country excursion. The Looshaus am Kreuzberg, designed by architect Adolf Loos as an understated wooden retreat amid the mountains, impresses with its clarity and unpretentious elegance, individually designed rooms in the vibrant Loos style, refined, nature-inspired cuisine, and a superb terrace. Even closer to Reichenau is the Knappenhof, an elegant fin-de-siècle villa at the foot of the Rax. Stylish rooms and suites, a legendary sun terrace, and the perfect blend of a summer retreat and a contemporary boutique hotel make it the ideal place to stay during the festival.

Reichenau Festival Hauptstraße 28, 2651 Reichenau an der Rax [www.festspiele-reichenau.at( www.festspiele-reichenau.at)

Looshaus am Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 60, 2650 Payerbach [www.looshaus.at] Hotel Knappenhof

Kleinau 34, 2651 Reichenau an der Rax www.knappenhof.at

Beloved.

In the sky above the Ionian Sea

There are places that are more than just beautiful travel destinations. They possess the rare gift of creating memories that last far beyond the vacation itself. The Mar-Bella Collection Greece is one of them. Four owner-managed resorts—three on Corfu and one in Epirus on the Greek mainland—are united not only by their privileged location on the Ionian Sea. It is the art of fostering those special moments that the hosts aptly call “Ionian Sea Moments”: moments full of lightness, beauty, and serenity that can neither be planned nor bought.

One such occasion is the “Greek Chefs Abroad” event series, launched six years ago. Several times a year, the Mar-Bella Collection invites esteemed Greek chefs—who are making their mark on the culinary scene abroad—back to their homeland, where they blend the techniques they have acquired internationally with the flavors and traditions of Greece. The concept is as elegant as it is straightforward: the result is dishes that feel instantly familiar yet deliver entirely fresh and surprising experiences. Mr. & Mrs. Connoisseur have been following the series for several years. This time, the evening takes them to the adults-only resort NIDO—more specifically, to the rooftop terrace of Apaggio Restaurant. Only low glass railings separate the guests from a spectacular panoramic view of the Ionian Sea. Shortly before sunset, the terrace itself seems to become a stage—with views of the graceful silhouettes of the cypress trees, the rising moon, the sparkling starry sky, and the silvery, glistening sea. Simply divine. The star of the evening is Nikos Roussos. With his London restaurants OPSO and Kima, he is one of the leading ambassadors of modern Greek cuisine. He previously made a name for himself as the owner and head chef of the legendary Athenian restaurant Funky Gourmet, whose avant-garde cuisine was awarded 2 Michelin stars. His signature style is unmistakable: respectful of tradition yet bold enough to reimagine it.
Even the amuse-bouche delights: a trio of delicate tartlets—one with bottarga (fish roe) from the large-headed mullet and white chocolate, one with beef tartare prepared in the Corfiot pastitsada style, and one that reinterprets the classic shrimp saganaki. Every bite feels familiar and yet completely new.

Seated next to us is Periklis Gompakis, Chief Commercial Director of the Mar-Bella Collection and co-initiator of the event series. When the Osietra caviar is served, he recommends first trying the still-warm tiger’s milk roll without the snow-white Corfiot butter that accompanies it. A seemingly casual suggestion that turns out to be a culinary revelation. The delicately sweet, crispy bread possesses so much character that the classic caviar accompaniment, blini, would pale in comparison.



The subsequent courses impress through precision rather than showmanship. The scallop is particularly impressive. Served on the shell, the scallop, smoked potatoes, summer truffles, and light white wine foam come together to form a composition of great class. No single ingredient dominates; the dish tastes wonderfully balanced. The wine pairing from the northern Greek winery Alpha Estate is equally well-balanced. With the octopus sofrito, a Pinot Noir complements the Mediterranean flavors with surprising finesse. The meal concludes with Kaimaki ice cream featuring kumquats and the finest olive oil, paired with the house’s Omega sweet wine—chapeau.



But in the end, it’s not just the cuisine and the wine pairings that make this evening unforgettable. It is the interplay of location, light, people, and hospitality. The service at NIDO is attentive yet unobtrusive, as if perfection were the most natural thing in the world. As we depart the terrace, night has long since fallen. The Ionian Sea lies calm beneath the starry sky, with only a few scattered lights dancing on the water’s surface. What lingers is far more than the memory of an extraordinary meal; it is the exquisite sense of being in the right place at the right time—which, most likely, is what a true “Ionian Sea Moment” is all about. www.marbella.gr