Caribbean Spice

Dense rainforests, spectacular volcanic lakes, beautiful beaches: Grenada is perhaps the most magnificent small island in the Caribbean.

"Spice means life", according to a Caribbean proverb - and if I take that literally, then Grenada is the full Caribbean life. I look into the contentedly smiling face of Chef Kennedy, who is standing in his large spice and vegetable garden, plucking a few leaves here and there to use them later in his kitchen to make the delicious national dish oil-down with callaloo, the Caribbean spinach, breadfruit and saltfish, and realize: The man radiates Caribbean joie de vivre! He was a university professor for a long time and has now turned his hobby of cooking into a new purpose in life. Together with his daughter Ariel, he has founded "Home Hospitality" and invites guests to cook Caribbean-Creole dishes with him in the kitchen of his pretty colonial house near the island's capital, St. George. But before that, they go into his garden to harvest herbs, vegetables and fruit. Farm-to-table - this is not a trendy slogan here, eco-cuisine is practised and guests have the opportunity to get to know a very special side of the spice island of Grenada away from the high-end tourism of international hotels and restaurants. In addition to white sandy beaches lined with palm trees, steel bands, colorful houses and Creole beauties, the volcanic island at the southern end of the Windward Islands has a lot more to offer than I expected.

"Your smile makes us happy" is written on the T-shirt of Curtis, the tourist guide and driver who takes me across the island, which is only 34 km long and 18 km wide: to an after-work barbecue with local beer with friends in his home village; into the middle of the rainforest of Grand Etang; to the waterfalls of Annandale and in the late evening, after an adventurous drive across the whole island, also to Levara Beach, where the Atlantic and Caribbean Seas meet and we can watch sea turtles laying their eggs - an impressive natural spectacle! Curtis loves his island, which for him is "the best of the best" in the Caribbean and where he knows every nook and cranny. A big name in the business and tourism world recognized this early on: Peter de Savary, founder of the world-famous St. James Clubs, owner of various castles and passionate yachtsman, who died in 2022, fell in love with Grenada as early as 1952 and invested in estates such as Tufton Hall Plantation, Azzurra Castle, the Port Louis harbor and stylish boutique hotels such as Mount Edgecombe and Mount Cinnamon. Many on the island still fondly remember the "Masterplanner of Grenada", who was appointed international ambassador for investment and tourism by the island government in 2012.







Visit to the museum on the seabed: Danny Donovan knew PdS - as Peter de Savary is known here - well and often sailed with him. At some point, he bought one of his traditional sailing boats from him. Grenadier Danny is waiting for us in the Port Louis Marina, with a view of St. George, one of the prettiest harbor towns in the Caribbean, which lives up to every postcard cliché with its colorful houses and historic fortress. In the marina, chic yachts stand next to old rowing boats, and from a distance you can see the cruise liners, which of course also drop anchor here. Danny shows us secluded bays for swimming and snorkeling in his agile sailing boat and, as a highlight just before sunset, the Molinere Bay Underwater Sculpture Park. Since 2006, the British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor has created 800 square meters of contemporary ecological underwater art with sixty-five sculptures that can be viewed while snorkelling or diving.




Like Danny, Englishman Kim Russell has a special connection with the island's traditions. He founded the "Crayfish Bay Organics" factory as an organic cocoa plantation back in 1993. Using relatively simple machines, some of which he constructed himself, he produces the best chocolate from local cocoa plants, which is sold as a luxury product in Europe. On a tour, he shows me how this works and at the same time tells me a lot about the economic development of Grenada, which today lives from the export of nutmeg, cocoa and spices in addition to tourism. I later find out how nutmeg gets from the tree into food and even tastes good as syrup and jam at the Nutmeg Museum in Victoria, in the northwest of the island. As a symbol of island agriculture, the spicy nutmeg is even depicted on the national flag. On the almost untouched north-east coast near the crater lake Lake Antoine, the River Antoine Estate, the oldest rum distillery in the Caribbean, demonstrates how rum was produced back in the 18th century. After all, sugar cane was one of the island nation's most important natural resources. Today, rum production no longer plays a major role, but rum punch is still very present, as it is almost everywhere in the Caribbean. Chef Kennedy told me his favorite high-proof recipe when I left: "1 of Sour, 2 of Sweet, 3 of Strong, 4 of Weak". Translated, this means: one measure of lime juice, two measures of cherry syrup, three measures of rum and four measures of water - seasoned with nutmeg, of course! Since then, I have known what the Caribbean tastes like and automatically associate the drink with the spice island of Grenada, of which it is also said: "Before you see Grenada, you smell it. Take a whiff of nutmeg, vanilla and cinnamon and go there - it's worth it!

www.puregrenada.com

www.rosetravel.de



Hotels

■ Six Senses La Sagesse The newest luxury hotel on the island is the first Caribbean resort in the Six Senses lifestyle portfolio and opened in April 2024 in the south-east of the island. The romantic location as well as the 56 pool suites and 15 villas in various sizes with large terraces and plunge pools enable a relaxing and luxuriously comfortable vacation in the midst of nature.
The resort has been carefully designed around a natural lagoon and offers the best views of green hills, tropical forest and rock formations. With two restaurants, two bars and its own bakery, the kitchen places great emphasis on authentic cuisine and products from its own organic farm or from local suppliers. In the Six Senses Spa, ancient healing traditions and rituals meet modern wellness programs.
www.sixsenses.com

■ Spice Island Beach Hotel
A Caribbean classic in a premium location: the all-suite beach resort in classic Caribbean style with lots of wood and surrounded by tropical vegetation is located directly on the famous, extensive sandy beach of Grand Anse in the south of the island. 64 bungalow suites, some with a pool or direct beach access, are nestled in beautiful, extensive gardens with plenty of privacy.
Guests can enjoy a wide range of wellness treatments at the Janissa Spa. There are also two restaurants, numerous water sports and sports facilities and a central location for island excursions.
location for island excursions. All in all, relaxed 5* luxury with an almost family atmosphere.
www.spiceislandbeachresort.com www.slh.com

■ The Calabash Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa
This family-run hotel with just 30 suites (52-186 m2) and a beach club is one of the most renowned 5* resorts in the Caribbean with its many regular guests and, as a Relais & Châteaux member, also scores points for its exquisite cuisine, which is characterized by the British
star chef Gary Rhodes. It is located in a small bay surrounded by tropical gardens in the south of the island, directly on L'Anse aux Epines beach. The owners, the Gabutt family, guarantee a personal and first-class service, plenty of privacy and a good combination of a relaxed vacation feeling and a Caribbean-friendly atmosphere. The small, exquisite spa impresses with holistic treatments.
www.calabashhotel.com www.relaischateaux.com

■ Silversands Grenada
Relaxed and stylish at the same time: even the lobby with its 100 m pool surprises with its wow effect. 39 rooms, 4 suites and 8 residences with private pools are situated in a prime location on the 3 km long Grand Anse Beach and impress with their modern comfort and contemporary design. Three restaurants offer a variety of cuisine, while exclusive tastings are held in the Whiskey & Rum Bar.
www.silversandscollection.com www.lhw.com

■ Silversands Beach House
Caribbean glamor at its best: the newly opened, very stylish boutique resort with 28 suites (52-161 m2) boasts a dream location on the almost untouched Portici Beach and great views of the sea. Italian cuisine is celebrated in the Azzurro beach restaurant, but guests also have access to the exclusive restaurants at the Silver Sands Resort, which can be easily reached by shuttle. Fitness fans will find the best equipment and a small, exquisite spa in the Beach House wellness area.
www.silversandscollection.com www.lhw.com

■ Mount Cinnamon Resort & Beach Club
Caribbean cozy look in a prime location: this charming and atmospheric boutique hotel with 37 rooms and suites, pool and small spa is one of the island's institutions and is situated on a hillside with a unique view over Grand Anse Bay. It impresses with its cheerful, colorful atmosphere in a charming colonial style. Some of the accommodation can be reached via stairs, but the "climb" is rewarded with a fantastic view. A large, spacious garden leads down to the beach club with restaurant. If you like original 4* comfort, this is the place for you.
www.mountcinnamongrenadahotel.com

■ Calivigny Island
This 30,000 m2 private island with an 8,000 m2 beach house residence (10 suites) and 3,000 m2 hillside residence (9 suites) is located off the south coast of Grenada and is only rented to groups with a maximum of 40 guests.
maximum of 40 guests. For daily rates of over 100,000 euros, you are guaranteed maximum privacy and enjoy pure luxury with individual 24-hour service, 6 private island beaches, swimming pool, cinema, billiards, tennis and concert grand piano. Last but not least, a priceless dream view over the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea awaits you.
www.calivigny-island.com

Restaurants
The most exclusive restaurants with good cuisine are located in the luxury hotels on Grenada. The Oliver Restaurant in the Spice Island Hotel scores with Caribbean-Creole specialties. The Rhodes Restaurant in the Calabash Hotel delights with haute cuisine from celebrity chef Gary Rhodes, while the Silversands offers Asian cuisine at Asiatique and Mediterranean and local cuisine at the Grenadian Grill.
Authentic local cuisine can be found mainly in the island's capital St. George, but also in smaller towns and sometimes directly connected to the sightseeing hotspots.

■ Extra tip
The restaurant in the Secret Harbour Boutique Hotel & Marina in Mount Hartman Bay offers a special atmosphere and Caribbean specialties with a view of a small marina.
www.secretharbourgrenada.com

Must Sees

■ National parks
Grand Etang National Park is known for its nutmeg groves and the impressive Concord and Annandale waterfalls. In Levara National Park in the north, you can watch sea turtles laying their eggs between March and July.

■ Agriculture, cocoa and chocolate
At Crayfish Bay Organic Chocolat Estate, chocolate is still made according to old traditions.
At the Belmont Estate, a 400-hectare plantation dating back to the late 17th century, you can get an
insight into traditional Caribbean agriculture. The neighboring Grenada
Chocolat Company shows how cocoa beans are turned into sweets. At the Grenada Nutmeg Museum in Victoria, you can find out how nutmeg gets from the tree to the spice shelves.

Rum
There are five important rum distilleries on Grenada, the most interesting of which is certainly the Saint Antoine Rum Distillery, which is considered the oldest in the Caribbean. Everything still works here as it did in the old days. However, production is now only for local consumption. Good to know: 69% rum can be exported, but not 75%!

■ Home cooking
Chef Kennedy invites guests into his kitchen for authentic cooking courses. They also visit his spice garden, cook national dishes and then eat together.
www.hhgnd.com

■ Out to sea
Savvy Grenada Sailing Charters and other charter and experience companies offer tours for diving and snorkeling and to the world's first underwater park.
General info: www.puregrenada.com

How to get there
With Condor from Frankfurt via Barbados (from Nov. 1x per week) or with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic (also via Barbados) from London
www.condor.com www.britishairways.com www.flywith.virginatlantic.com