Where the Night Shines

Darkness, biting cold, and a sky ablaze with color: During the Norwegian winter, the Arctic Circle becomes the stage for a fascinating natural spectacle. Hanseatic nature offers the best seats in the house—on an expedition from Hamburg all the way up to the North Cape and back again.

Tromsø, a Saturday in January. Although it’s only 2 p.m., a deep midnight blue already hangs over the “Gateway to the Arctic.” My stroll to the Hanseatic nature takes me along icy sidewalks and past houses and shops that—as is the norm throughout Norway’s frosty north—glow with countless strings of lights from November through March. Yet the throng of tourists, wrapped in voluminous down coats against the -18 °C chill, seems oblivious to this spectacle. That is because the “beautiful glow” that draws me here, too, does not materialise in Tromsø’s streets and alleys at this time of year; it appears in the sky above the city. And just as I am about to step onto the gangway, I glance up one last time—and it happens: At first, it is merely a faint green streak rising above the ship’s funnel, slowly strengthening, beginning to glow, and finally dancing like a veil in the wind—my first aurora!

BEAUTIFUL GLOWIn ages past, people believed the auroras were signs from the gods—anyone who has witnessed them in person still understands that today.

Later, as I share the experience with my fellow travelers over guinea fowl essence, lobster with smoked hollandaise, and lime mousse, they offer only a weary smile. Unlike me, they have been sailing north on the Hanseatic Nature for a few days longer—and have long since become “aurora pros.” They now venture back to the deck or step out onto their own balconies only when General Expedition Manager Nadine Armbrust announces particularly vibrant and dramatic “glimmers of light” over the ship’s public-address system.

HEADING TOWARD THE FAR NORTHThe Hanseatic nature will return to Norwegian waters for the 2026–2027 winter season.ON THE ROCKSThe Hanseatic nature in the Geirangerfjord (right) and near the Svartisen Glacier, which passengers approach via the ship’s Zodiacs.


WINTER WONDERLANDA reindeer sleigh ride through snow-covered landscapes.WHALE SPOTTINGSare not uncommon in Norway’s polar coastal waters.ROUND OBJECTthe famous globe at the North Cape bathed in the glow of the Northern LightsSVOLVAERThe small town is considered the capital of the Lofoten archipelago.TRONDHEIMLively, youthful, and aglow with fairy lights from November to March. The following morning, in a seascape of restless grey, the Hanseatic nature arrived overnight in Honningsvåg. During my summer visit, three colossal cruise ships lay anchored off Europe’s northernmost city, and a babble of languages filled the narrow streets. Today, apart from us, only a Hurtigruten mail ship lies moored at the pier, and as I stroll through town, I hear nothing but the crunching snow beneath my feet. The fact that no other shipping company ventures this far north at this time of year is not due to the few ice floes drifting in the harbour basin. “Thanks to the Gulf Stream, ice isn’t a major issue in this area. The problem is the external lines,” Captain Alexander Rabe-Bär explains to me during a visit to the bridge, pointing to the outside thermometer: “At -22°C like today, special insulation is needed—and only a ship like ours has that.”

Heading to the North Cape at -22° C

Since the weather on the 30-km stretch to the North Cape can shift from winter wonderland to snowy chaos within minutes at this time of year, the ascent to the slate plateau above the Arctic Ocean is permitted only in a convoy escorted by a snowplow. Today, however, our burly companion proved entirely superfluous. The road remains serene—on Europe’s northernmost highway and, a little later, also before the world-famous steel globe, which in summer draws throngs of visitors. Since 1978, it has braved every conceivable weather condition—serving as a landmark and, on this day, as a Northern Lights hotspot. “Even we seldom witness as much sky glow as you encountered during your visit,” the guide remarks later, during our return journey.
For us passengers, the North Cape is not merely a high point but also a turning point. From here on, we set a southerly course—to Alta with its iconic Northern Lights Cathedral, for a brief sojourn in the Lofoten Islands, to the vibrant coastal cities of Trondheim and Stavanger, or to the impressive Svartisen Glacier, accessible only via the ship’s Zodiacs.

Another highlight is the cruise through the Geirangerfjord. At a snail’s pace, we glide through the 15-kilometer-long and up to 600-meter-wide fjord—past snow-capped mountain giants, frozen waterfalls, and picture-perfect mountain farms. The two retractable glass-floor balconies on the pool deck and the wraparound Nature Walk at the bow serve as observation platforms of a singularly distinctive kind. My personal favorite retreat, however, is the Observation Lounge, where hot chocolate and cookies are served as the landscape glides past and the onboard pianist performs works by Edvard Grieg. What a treat—for all the senses!

The finest “hygge” feeling pervades the cabins and suites—this is precisely how one loves to spend days at sea.

That same exquisite “hygge” feeling also envelops my balcony cabin, which, at 27 m², offers an astonishing amount of space and storage, along with thoughtful amenities such as a wall-mounted heater for drying expedition parkas and an indirect, individually adjustable lighting system that creates exceptionally pleasant ambience. In such an atmosphere, you will happily spend one (or even another) day at sea with in-room dining and (thanks to Starlink) Netflix series marathons. Alternatively, you might attend lectures by the travelling scientists, conduct research yourself at the Ocean Academy, join a fitness class, indulge in a massage, tour the vessel to admire nearly 200 works of art gracefully distributed across every deck, or simply watch for whales and count wave crests while relaxing in the panoramic sauna. You won’t find any big-name onboard entertainment on the intimate Hanseatic nature, yet the two-page daily program nonetheless presents a wealth of relaxing, exhilarating, and enlightening pursuits. The shore excursions during our voyage are equally diverse: Those who find horseback riding, ice fishing, snowshoeing, or snowmobiling too daring can opt for a reindeer sleigh ride, a visit to the ice hotel, or a nighttime aurora borealis excursion into the mountains followed by dinner at a Norwegian farmhouse.

Wiener Schnitzel on the Waves

Which brings us to the cuisine: While the menu at the aforementioned farmhouse is limited to salmon or meatloaf with mashed potatoes, the fare on board is far more exquisite—though not quite at the level I enjoy on the Europa or the Europa 2, the two larger sisters in the Hapag-Lloyd Cruises fleet. Whether it’s veal liver with apples and onions, saddle of venison with cranberries and bacon, trout fillet with almond crust and spinach, or Wiener schnitzel with potato and cucumber salad: The evening menu at the Hanseatic Restaurant often features classics of German and Austrian cuisine—prepared with a certain twist and sure to satisfy any gourmet palate—which are also offered in a slightly adapted form at the more casual Lido buffet restaurant. For an international dining experience—or, more precisely, one with “the maritime flair of the U.S. East Coast”—head to the intimate specialty restaurant Hamptons, which is complimentary but requires a reservation. Whatever you choose, the service is first-class in all restaurants, as well as in the bars and lounges.

LONG ISLAND STYLEAt the Hamptons restaurant, you dine just like on the US East Coast.The final evening on board: En route to Hamburg, the ship’s officers announce “Aurora borealis in sight” once again. This time, however, the phenomenon appears not north of the Arctic Circle but south of Heligoland, whose rugged coastline looms on the horizon. In every shade of red—from bright magenta to pale mauve—it glows over the island. Such a spectacle is absolutely extraordinary at these latitudes—and fits perfectly with this journey, which will remain in my memory for a long time to come.




HANSATIC NATURE

CABINS & SUITES
total 120, cabins 21–27 m², junior suites 42 m², grand suites 71 m²

CCIRCLE TIPa retreat on Deck 6 with quick access to the Nature Walk for aurora or whale sightings

STYLE & AMBIENCE
Bright, high-quality interiors, relaxed atmosphere—quiet luxury on the world’s oceans

FACILITIES
3 restaurants & lounges, Ocean Academy, pool, large deck areas, shop, 24/7 room service

SPORTS & SPA
spacious spa, gym with top-notch class offerings

SERVICE
first-class and always attentive

CONTACT
www.hl-cruises.com

TECHNICAL DATA
Commissioned: 2019 Length: 139 m Decks: 9 Passengers: max. 230 Crew: 247 Onboard language: German