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The Adriatic gourmet trip: Croatia has a new trend destination with the Kvarner gourmet region. The most delicious scampi, imperial lamb, cool Michelin-starred restaurants and sparkling wine from the seabed: Foodie heart, what more could you want?
Deni Srdo cannot be accused of lacking self-confidence. The chef de cuisine sees his place of work, the rooftop restaurant Nebo in the Hilton Costabella in Rijeka, not only as a fine dining hotspot, but apparently also as a show stage: he has therefore had a painting of himself placed to the left in front of the exit to the open-air lounge. His own belly brushing may have something to do with the fact that he previously became Croatia's youngest star chef at the "Draga di Lovrana" at the age of just 27 and followed this coup with another Michelin star at Nebo (= heaven).
The shooting star from Krk seems more down-to-earth when formulating his direction: "I want to be synonymous with modern yet traditional cuisine. There are so many forgotten recipes here!"
Just a few kilometers away, in the nostalgic climatic health resort of Opatija, the director of the popular k.u.k. Hotel Miramar, Andreas Madejski, sits in the Sisi Pavilion and says: "I don't know a friend who hasn't eaten at the Hilton." Over the past three years, gastronomy in the region has changed dramatically. "Away from cevapcici, pizza and chips" and towards finer, healthier, more sophisticated dishes and a classier ambience. Homemade bread with olive oil is no longer a rarity, and the decor has also been adjusted. Madejski, a native of Vienna, says: "Croats have become more willing to travel and have therefore noticed what's going on in the world in culinary terms. The hotels and apartments have also been given an upgrade, with new furniture and mattresses - everything is moving in the right direction."
Innovation menu in Cikat Bay
For the first time, the locational advantage is also really played out: Located between Istria and Dalmatia, the Kvarner region (Opatija Riviera, Rijeka, Crikvenica-Novi Vinodolski, the mountainous hinterland of Gorski kotar, plus the islands of Krk, Cres, Lošinj and Rab) is a culinary f(r)ish paradise.
The Kvarner scampi are of legendary quality, the best in Croatia, as insiders say with a click of the tongue. They are served in both traditional and creative cuisine - in a creamy white wine sauce, marinated raw, grilled or in pasta and risotto.
In the Alfred Keller restaurant at the five-star boutique hotel Alhambra in Mali Lošinj, Upper Austrian chef Michael Gollenz serves up "cool fish". He works with a close-meshed net of small fishermen - "I also use stingrays, scorpionfish and dentex". Gollenz, born in 1995, likes to incorporate the prey from the sea into his "innovation menu". The reward for his line of cuisine, which also includes French and Asian accents: a first Michelin star, awarded in September 2021.
"Devotion" in the fish cathedral
The "Fish Cathedral" in Rijeka is also open to amateur chefs. Ex-Monty Python star and travel writer Michael Palin has honored the fish hall of the European Capital of Culture 2020 with this aristocratic title. Only women advertise their wares here, in a very gentle, matter-of-fact tone, without shouting: "Sea bream, fresh scampi ..." Connoisseur Circle tip: The hustle and bustle can be observed particularly well from an unofficial visitors' gallery on the top floor of the brick building.
However, the fish market is just one part of the Kvarner treasure trove of seasonal, local and regional delicacies. It is surrounded by the fruit and vegetable market, where in spring the first "Vrgorac" strawberries from the Dalmatian hinterland scream "Take me!" - as do wild asparagus, beef tomatoes, chard and wild garlic. Autumn hits are chestnuts from Lovran and truffles from Istria. A permanent guest: the equally celebrated olive oil.
The Kvarner region undoubtedly benefits from the combination of coast and mountain and the short supply routes. Mediterranean, continental and alpine - diversity and product quality merge in a very small area. Fresh fish and seafood, fresh game or meat? Nema problema. The lamb from Krk in particular - along with sheep and goat cheese and "prsut" (ham) - has a loyal fan base. Legend has it that it was served at Nero's banquets in ancient Rome.
Hollywood star alone with wine
Ancient island specialties enrich the gourmet menu just as much as modern restaurants in designer hotels. Near Lovran, the Ikador - a Leading Hotel of the World, which opened four years ago - cooks up foodies in its high-priced Nobilion Restaurant. At the other end of the Lungomare, between Opatija and Rijeka, the stylish Navis is clinging to the cliffs. It's no coincidence that the restaurant of the same name feels like you're on the panoramic deck of a cruise ship. "Navis" is the Latin word for ship. A real Hollywood celebrity has already dropped anchor here: Owen Wilson was a guest on the occasion of a commercial shoot - and sought the company of a bottle of wine on the tiny hotel gravel beach. I wonder if it was an autochthonous "žlahtina" from the quaint wine village of Vrbnik on the island of Krk? The charming community on a rocky plateau is surrounded by a green belt of vineyards.
Top addresses are the Vinotel Gospoja, where the products of all six wineries in the village can be tasted, and the Nada winery with konoba and restaurant in the old town. The panoramic terrace of the wine tavern with its distant views and barrels that have been converted into bar tables is perfect for an aperitif.
Even more magic awaits a few hundred meters from the harbour, where the "Valomet" sparkling wine slumbers on the seabed. It is made from a single variety, the local Vrbnika žlahtina. The bottles are stored in steel mesh boxes at a depth of 30 meters, where a constant temperature of twelve degrees is ideal for fermentation. Yes, this cornucopia of gastronomic and oenological surprises in the Kvarner pleasure hotspot is really quite tangy.
www.kvarner.hr
ELEGANCE & DYNAMITE
A selection of the best gourmet addresses between Lošinj and Lovran, from high-end to casual.
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ALFRED KELLER
1 Michelin star, 3 Gault Millau toques and a well-stocked wine cellar make the main restaurant in the Alhambra boutique hotel in Mali Lošinj the place to be.
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MATSUNOKI
Noble Japanese in Bellevue, a five-minute walk from the Alhambra, also in Cikat Bay on Mali Lošinj. It's not just the "Dynamite Rolls" that pop on the palate. www.losinj-hotels.com
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NEBO
The playground of the young and wild Deni Srdoč on the 5th floor of the Hilton Rijeka Costabella Beach Resort & Spa. Fine dining with a view.
www.neborijeka.com
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NOBILION
In the chic Ikador Hotel near Lovran. Already crowned with 3 toques.
www.ikador.com
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NAVIS
In the design hostel of the same name on the Opatija Riviera. Also 2 Gault Millau toques, outstanding scampi and sushi.
www.hotel-navis.hr/de
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DRAGA DI LOVRANA
In Lovran, at lofty heights,
began the ascent of
Deni Srdoč. First star for
the Kvarner Bay in 2019.
www.dragadilovrana.hr
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RUŽMARIN
An institution with consistency.
Fresh fish from the charcoal grill, truffle burgers, great pizza.
www.restaurant-ruzmarin.com
