Where the Night Shines

Darkness, biting cold, and a sky ablaze with color: during the Norwegian winter, the Arctic Circle becomes the stage for a fascinating natural spectacle. Hanseatic nature offers the best seats in the house—on an expedition from Hamburg all the way up to the North Cape and back again.

Tromsø, a Saturday in January. Although it’s only 2 p.m., a deep midnight blue already hangs over the “Gateway to the Arctic.” My stroll to the Hanseatic nature takes me along icy sidewalks and past houses and shops that—as is the norm throughout Norway’s frosty north—glow with countless strings of lights from November through March. Yet the throng of tourists, swathed in plush down jackets against the -18 °C chill, remains oblivious. That is because the “beautiful glow” that has drawn me here, too, does not materialise in Tromsø’s streets and alleys at this time of year, but paints the sky above the city. And then, as I am about to step onto the gangway and glance up one last time, the moment arrives: At first, it’s merely a faint green streak rising above the ship’s funnel, slowly intensifying, beginning to glow, and finally dancing like a veil in the wind—my first aurora!

BEAUTIFUL GLOW In the past, people believed the auroras were signs from the gods—anyone who has ever experienced them live understands that to this day.



Later, as I share the experience with my fellow travelers over guinea fowl essence, lobster with smoked hollandaise, and lime mousse, they offer only a weary smile. Unlike me, they have been sailing north on the Hanseatic nature for a few days longer—and have long since become “aurora pros.” They now venture up to the deck or step out onto their own balconies only when General Expedition Manager Nadine Armbrust announces particularly vibrant and impressive “glimmers of light” over the ship’s public-address system.

HEADING TOWARD THE FAR NORTH The Hanseatic nature will return to Norwegian waters for the 2026–2027 winter season.






ON THE ROCKS '' The Hanseatic nature gliding through the Geirangerfjord (right) and approaching the Svartisen Glacier by Zodiac.'





WINTER WONDERLAND A reindeer sleigh ride through snow-shrouded landscapes.




Whale encounters are not uncommon in Norway’s polar coastal waters.

ROUND OBJECT The famous globe at the North Cape, bathed in the glow of the Northern Lights

SVOLVAER This small town is considered the capital of the Lofoten archipelago.

TRONDHEIM lively, youthful, and aglow with fairy lights from November to March.''

The following morning, in a seascape of restless swell, the Hanseatic nature arrived overnight at Honningsvåg. During my summer visit, three colossal cruise ships lay anchored off Europe’s northernmost city, and the alleys hummed with a babble of languages. Today, apart from us, only a Hurtigruten mail ship has moored at the pier, and as I stroll through town, I hear nothing but the crunching snow beneath my feet. The fact that no other shipping company ventures this far north at this time of year isn’t due to the few ice floes drifting in the harbor basin. “Thanks to the Gulf Stream, ice isn’t a major issue in this area. The problem is the external lines,” Captain Alexander Rabe-Bär explains to me during a visit to the bridge, pointing to the outside thermometer: “At -22°C like today, special insulation is needed—and only a ship like ours has that.”

Heading to the North Cape at -22°C

Since the weather on the 30-kilometer stretch to the North Cape can shift from winter wonderland to snowy chaos within minutes at this time of year, the ascent to the slate plateau above the Arctic Ocean is permitted only in a convoy escorted by a snowplow. Today, however, our burly companion proved entirely superfluous. The road remains serene—on Europe’s northernmost highway and, a little later, before the world-famous steel globe, which in summer draws throngs of visitors. Since 1978, it has braved every conceivable weather condition—serving as a landmark and, on this particular day, as a Northern Lights hotspot. “Even we seldom witness as much sky glow as you encountered during your visit,” our guide remarks later, as we make our way back down the mountain.
For us passengers, the North Cape is not merely a high point but also a turning point, for from this moment on we are heading south—first to Alta with its iconic Northern Lights Cathedral, then for a brief sojourn in the Lofoten Islands, on to the vibrant coastal cities of Trondheim and Stavanger, and finally to the impressive Svartisen Glacier, accessible only via the ship’s Zodiacs.

Ice, Ice, Maybe Drinks at the Ice Hotel in Alta

Another highlight is the cruise through the Geirangerfjord. At a snail’s pace, we glide through the 15-kilometer-long and up to 600-meter-wide fjord—past snow-capped mountain giants, frozen waterfalls, and picture-perfect mountain farms. The two retractable balconies with glass floors on the pool deck and the wraparound Nature Walk at the bow serve as observation platforms of a singularly intimate kind. My personal favorite retreat, however, is the Observation Lounge, where hot chocolate and cookies are served as the landscape glides past and the onboard pianist performs works by Edvard Grieg. What a treat—for all the senses!

The finest “hygge” feeling pervades the cabins and suites—this is precisely how one loves to spend days at sea.

That same exquisite “hygge” feeling also envelops my balcony cabin, which, at 27 m², offers an astonishing amount of space and storage, along with thoughtful amenities such as a wall-mounted heater for drying expedition parkas and an indirect, individually adjustable lighting system that creates exceptionally pleasant ambience. In such an atmosphere, one is happy to spend an entire day at sea—or even two—indulging in in-room dining and, thanks to Starlink, Netflix marathons. Alternatively, one could, of course, attend the lectures by the accompanying scientists, become a researcher at the Ocean Academy, join a fitness class, indulge in a massage, tour the vessel to admire the nearly 200 works of art gracing every deck, or scan the horizon for whales and count wave crests while relaxing in the panoramic sauna. You won’t find any big-name onboard entertainment on the intimate Hanseatic nature, yet the two-page daily program nonetheless presents a wealth of relaxing, exhilarating, and enlightening experiences. The shore excursions during our voyage are equally diverse: Those who find horseback riding, ice fishing, snowshoeing, or snowmobiling too daring can opt for a reindeer sleigh ride, a visit to the ice hotel, or a nighttime aurora borealis excursion into the mountains followed by dinner at a Norwegian farmhouse.

Wiener Schnitzel on the Waves

Which brings us to the cuisine: While the menu at the aforementioned farmhouse is limited to salmon or meatloaf with mashed potatoes, the choices on board are far more exquisite—though not quite at the standard I enjoy on the Europa or the Europa 2, the two larger vessels in the Hapag-Lloyd Cruises fleet. Whether veal liver with apples and onions, saddle of venison with cranberries and bacon, trout fillet with almond crust and spinach, or Wiener schnitzel with potato and cucumber salad: The evening menu at the Hanseatic Restaurant often features classics of German and Austrian cuisine—prepared with a subtle twist and satisfying even the most discerning gourmet palate—which are also offered in a slightly adapted form at the more casual Lido buffet restaurant. For an international dining experience—or, more precisely, one with “the maritime flair of the U.S. East Coast”—visit the intimate specialty restaurant Hamptons, which is complimentary but requires a reservation. Whatever you choose, the service is first-class in all restaurants, as well as in the bars and lounges.

LONG ISLAND STYLE At the Hamptons restaurant, you dine just like on the US East Coast

The final evening aboard finds the ship gliding toward Hamburg, and once again the crew announces, “Aurora borealis in sight.” This time, however, the display unfolds not north of the Arctic Circle but south of Heligoland, whose rugged coastline looms on the horizon. In every shade of red—from bright magenta to pale mauve—it glows over the island. Such a spectacle is absolutely extraordinary at these latitudes—and fits perfectly with this journey, which will remain in my memory for a long time to come.

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H A N S E A T I C N A T U R E

CABINS & SUITES 120 in total, cabins 21–27 m², Junior Suites 42 m², Grand Suites 71 m² CCIRCLE TIP a retreat on Deck 6 with quick access to the Nature Walk for aurora or whale sightings

STYLE & AMBIENCE Bright, high-quality interiors, relaxed atmosphere—this is quiet luxury on the world’s oceans. FACILITIES 3 restaurants & lounges, Ocean Academy, pool, large deck areas, shop, 24/7 room service. SPORTS & SPA Spacious spa, gym with top-notch class offerings.

SERVICE First-class and always attentive CONTACT www.hl-cruises.comTECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Launched: 2019 Length: 139 m Decks: 9 Passengers: max. 230 Crew: 247 Onboard language: German