The best of the Balkans

Montenegro invites you on an unforgettable road trip: High mountains, deep gorges, beautiful bays and villages straight out of a picture book

Right or left? Heads or tails? It's not so easy to decide one way or the other just behind Podgorica's mini-airport.

Via the E80, you can finally reach the mountains (right) just as quickly as the sea (left). And the actually obvious detour to Montenegro's nearby capital (straight ahead) can be safely omitted anyway, as the 150,000-inhabitant metropolis is all too centerless and soulless ... "Head" says the thrown euro, which incidentally replaced the German mark as the national currency in 2002 - even though Montenegro, as is well known, never belonged to Germany and is not (yet) a member of the EU. So, to the right. In the direction of the 2,522 m high peaks, some of which are still covered in snow at the beginning of June. Less than ten minutes later, the last foothills of Podgorica are long behind us. From now on it's uphill. First past vineyards and pastures, then through terrain that becomes increasingly wild, wooded and "winnetou".



An impression that is anything but deceptive: some of the Karl May films that were so popular at the time were actually shot here in the 1960s! If you want to follow in the footsteps of the fictional Apache chief, you can easily do so: The lovingly designed private website www.aufwinnetousspuren.atguides you to the sets, right down to the decimal point behind the GPS coordinates, and juxtaposes stills from the films with actual photographs. However, the real "treasure" in this unique landscape is not just any "silver lake", but the Moraa Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in Europe. Our culinary tip: Along the main road there are some wonderful konobas, small, sometimes rather crooked and outdated barbecue huts where delicious mountain lamb or, with a bit of luck, an Ispod Saa is served. The rustic dish, consisting of potatoes, pieces of meat and all kinds of vegetables and spices, gets its unmistakable taste from the gentle cooking under an iron dome covered with embers. These domes - plus the accompanying pan-like pots - are available for a few euros in any household goods store. They are the perfect souvenir for all BBQ fans and really outdo any luxury barbecue in their ingenious simplicity.

Canadian mountain lodge meets 70s East Block glamor

Even if Kolašin is in summer hibernation these weeks, it's worth a trip to Montenegro's largest ski resort because it not only boasts 45 kilometers of slopes, but also the legendary Hotel Bianca. You won't find any luxury in this 4-star hotel, but you will find an ambience that can probably best be described as "Canadian mountain lodge meets 70s East Block glamor". Absolutely worth seeing: the daring architecture with its roof construction reaching down to the floor, the embrasure-like bay windows and oval windows, as well as the open fireplace in the lobby, in front of which you would love to sip eggnogs or mulled wine while sinking into deep wing chairs. Even if neither is on offer, it's still worth staying the night. Especially if you don't reach Kolašin until the afternoon. The next stage over to Zabljak may not be long, but it is so spectacular (and challenging) that you really should allow a whole day for the almost 90 kilometers.

A "wow" after every hairpin bend, a "whew, done" after every unlit tunnel whose unplastered side walls can at best be guessed in the pitch dark: the ride through the Tara Gorge is a real adventure - and not for the faint-hearted. Time and again, boulders the size of a child's head may suddenly roll onto the road or force oncoming trucks to back up. However, the sight of mighty waterfalls and the view of vertical rock faces that seem to touch the sky far above make up for this. At 1,300 m, the Tara Gorge is "only" the second deepest canyon in the world, but it is in no way inferior to the Grand Canyon, which is up to 1,800 m deep. Quite the opposite: the narrowness of the gorge combined with the turquoise-blue water of the Tara, which makes its way between gray rock and primeval green vegetation, creates a sense of wonder and stillness, at least for us, that we did not experience when visiting its big brother in Arizona. For those who like to get to the bottom of things, the best way to discover the "natural spectacle of the Tara Gorge" is on a guided rafting tour or a hike through the valley floor. If you prefer to float above things instead, you can also entrust yourself to the operators of a zipline right next to the old Durdevica Bridge and hurtle from one side of the canyon to the other at 50 km/h.

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Take off in style: With the zipline over Europe's second deepest canyon

After this suicide mission, it's only 23 km to the day's destination in Zabljak - and at least twice as many hairpin bends. Situated in the middle of Durmitor National Park on a high plateau, the small town is a popular summer resort and has a remarkable 48 two-thousand-metre peaks within a day's ride. Instead, we opt for a leisurely walk to Crno Jezero, the black glacial lake at an altitude of 1,400 meters. Why does the 4 km tour turn into a drag? Because countless farmers have set up their stalls on the way to the shore, offering homemade blueberry jam, home-distilled schnapps, wonderfully fragrant ham and cheese and all kinds of other regional specialties ...

The small boutique hotel SOA serves as a charming refuge for our stay in Zabljak. If that doesn't seem comfortable enough, you'll have to be patient for another two years. Then Aman plans to open a mountain resort here. And the Chedi Group has already secured a dream property in the region, which is a UNSECO World Heritage Site. It seems as if the first exclusive hotel addresses will soon be added to the extremely exclusive location of Zabljak ... It is already certain that both luxury brands will offer their guests comfortable helicopter transfers from the coast up into the mountains. On the one hand, this is certainly a "heavenly pleasure", but on the other hand it is also a bit of a shame, as you miss out on all the insights and views that make the drive over Montenegro's mountain passes and panoramic roads so special.

A real "highlight" - in the truest sense of the word - is the Ostrog Monastery not far from Danilovgrad. Visible from afar, the most visited sanctuary in the Balkans clings to the mountain like a swallow's nest. On the way to the sea, you will almost inevitably pass the 17th century complex. It would be a big mistake to simply leave it to the left!



Montengro by the sea is no longer as pristine as it was in the mountains. Quite the opposite: between Ulcinj in the south and Herceg Novi in the north, things have become quite luxurious! The most recent example is the One&Only Portonovi, which just opened in May. Spectacularly situated at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor, it is the Arab hotel chain's first hotel on European soil - and currently probably the best address on the entire Adriatic. From the mighty colonnades and terracotta roofs to the open fireplaces in every room and suite and the culinary concept, for which the multi-award-winning chef Nancy Kinchela is responsible: Much of the One&Only Portonovi pays homage to Montenegro's rich culture and its people's love of ancient traditions.

Sinking ships in Montenegrin

It takes about half an hour by car from the ultra-luxurious modern hotel palace to the baroque Perast with its narrow streets and stately captain's mansions. The best view of one of the most beautiful cities in the country - as well as the mountains behind it - is from the artificially created mini-island of Gospa od Škrpjela. It was created by sinking stones and old ships around a tiny rock protruding from the water. Since 1632, the island has been home to a small pilgrimage church, which will one day grow to the size of a cathedral. This is why the locals still row out to their "Mary on the Rock" in an impressive boat procession every July 22 to enlarge the land area by throwing more stones into the sea. It hasn't achieved much to date. Nevertheless, the annual Fašinada guarantees a lot of fun.



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Even Tim Raue raves about the cevapcici at Mesara Tanjga

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If there are no cruise liners anchored at the far end of Europe's southernmost fjord (and the chances of this happening in the exceptional summer of 2021 are extremely good! The old town with its 5 km long, 20 m high and up to 10 m wide defensive wall is one of the best preserved in the entire Mediterranean region. The most beautiful view of the town, countryside and fjord is from the St. Ivan Fortress. The winding ascent over 1,350 steps and 280 meters in altitude should ideally be completed early in the morning or just before sunset - because of the heat, the very special light conditions and above all because of the many day tourists who clog up the often narrow path during the day and cause long traffic jams. Incidentally, we are not the only ones to recommend the Mesara Tanjga for a snack after the big tour. Berlin star chef Tim Raue also celebrated the butcher's shop, which has been converted into a snack bar with a cozy back terrace, where the grill is already glowing at 9 a.m., as a "culinary discovery" and raves about the "juiciest cevapcici of my life, crispy grilled and dripping with fat, served on cloudy, tender white bread, with a wonderfully sour white cabbage salad and a divinely sweet and spicy ajvar sauce." Can you make a more beautiful declaration of love to a meatball roll? Probably not ...

From the Middle Ages to the modern age

As a contrast to the medieval town of Kotor, there are two retort towns on our itinerary: Porto Montenegro and Luštica Bay. Located not far from the international airport in Tivat, both cater to luxury vacationers as well as wealthy second, third and fourth home owners who appreciate the mild tax climate at least as much as the paradisiacal view from their own roof terrace. Montenegro as the new Monaco? A glance at Porto Montenegro's marina, where two of the world's largest private yachts, the 106-metre-long three-master Black Pearl and the 115-metre-long Pelorus, are moored during our stay, gives rise to suspicion. The fact that warships were still being built here, where today you can see boats and stroll along luxury boutiques, until well into the Civil War, can only be guessed at in a small naval museum ...
The first local hotel address is the Regent Porto Montenegro - a hotel that masters the balancing act between trend-conscious and traditional and has no problem offering fine food to go in its Gourmet Corner, while fine dining is celebrated in the Murano restaurant next door. This is how Grand Hotel 2.0 works!

The Lustia Bay development project is located a few hills away on an almost untouched peninsula. Built in the style of a fishing village directly on the open sea and a steep slope, it will have over 1,000 apartments, 500 villas, 7 hotels, 2 marinas, an 18-hole golf course, restaurants, boutiques and miles of private beaches when completed. Until then, however, we will have to make do with The Chedi, which opened in 2018. The fact that the LHW member is hardly convincing in many areas and is more boring than leading is something it has in common with the whole of Lustia Bay. On the way back to Podgorica, we have planned a detour to Sveti Stefan, where the jet-set used to hang out in the old fishermen's houses on a tiny island back in Tito's day. The almost circular private island, connected to the mainland by a stone causeway, has been part of the Aman Resorts since 2010. As you would expect from the hotel group known for its style, Sveti Stefan today presents itself as a prime example of quiet luxury, free of plastic and ostentation. It shouldn't be too difficult for future investors to take this as a model, as the 1.4 hectare rock in the sea is considered to be
Montenegro's most photographed motif ...

Facts

Travel

Austrian Airlines is currently the only airline from German-speaking countries that flies directly to the capital's airport Podgorica (TGD). During the summer months, there will also be non-stop connections to the airport in Tivat (TIV), which is located directly by the sea. Alternatively, we recommend a flight to Dubrovnik (DBV), from where it is only about 20 km to the Montenegrin border.
austrian.com

Living in the mountains

■ Hotel Bianca
Hotel institution and architectural icon in one. The unique ambience makes up for the lack of luxury.
biancaresort.com

■ Hotel SOA
Modern boutique hotel on the outskirts of Zabljak within walking distance of the Black Lake. One of the few slightly upscale 4-star hotels.
hotelsoa.com

■ Chalets & mountain huts
If you want to stay longer in the mountains, it is best to rent a vacation home. They are available in all sizes and some
with very comfortable facilities. Wooden chalets with pointed wooden roofs that reach down to the ground are particularly typical, providing protection from the enormous snow loads in winter. E.g. via:
ruralholiday.me

Living by the sea

■ One&Only PortoNovi
The new top address in a dream location directly by the sea with a (paved) sandy beach and large gardens. 113 rooms and suites between 55 and 375 m2 in size. Signature restaurant by Italian star chef Giorgio Locatelli. Top for detox and reset treatments at the highest level: the 4,000 m2 Chenot Espace!
oneandonlyresorts.com

■ The Chedi Lustiča Bay
5* hotel with 100 rooms, 10 suites and a penthouse on the harbor of the resort town of Lustiča Bay. In terms of service and styling, Montenegro's first The Chedi unfortunately does not (yet) meet the standards we are used to from the other hotels in the luxury chain.
chedilusticabay.com

■ Regent Porto
Montenegro Classically chic luxury hotel that makes both vacation guests and business travelers happy. First-class culinary offerings and tasteful rooms and suites with a view of the marina. As an alternative to the large pool area
there is a boat shuttle to the beach. Luxury boutiques and promenade right on the doorstep and Tivat is also within walking distance.
ihg.com

■ Ananti Resort
Luxury resort situated high on a hillside with fantastic views and tastefully furnished suites and villas, some of which have their own pools. Golf carts run to the private beach with beach club. Fine dining restaurant and panorama café
on the roof terrace.
ananti.me

■ Aman Sveti Stefan
Under the management of Aman, the oldest luxury resort in the country focuses on purist, upmarket design in old fishermen's houses and the summer villa of the former Montenegrin royal family. There is also a fantastic spa retreat with an XL indoor pool and first-class treatments, 3 hotel restaurants and a Nobu branch, which is due to reopen in the summer.
aman.com

■ Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast
Hotel housed in an 18th century palace directly on the Perast waterfront. A dream inside and out in shades of white and greige. Relaxed piazza restaurant with local cuisine. Trendy beach club with pool and stunning views of the bay.
iberostar.com

Overnight stay in Podgorica

If you only land in Podgorica in the late afternoon or evening and are planning a trip to the mountains, you should plan an overnight stay in the capital due to the route conditions. The Hilton Podgorica Crna Gora with its pretty Sky Bar is recommended as one of the first addresses.
hilton.com

Culinary

Gourmet restaurants, such as Sabia in the One&Only or Murano in the Regent, can only really be found in the luxury hotels by the sea. However, there are simple restaurants almost everywhere that serve excellent local cuisine. Along the coast, fish and seafood dishes are particularly recommended. In the mountains, you should definitely try rustic specialties such as lamb in milk or kale with veal and dried meat. Incidentally, Montenegro's national dishes are influenced by Italian as well as Turkish-Arabic influences, resulting in a wonderful crossover cuisine. If you want to try the cevapcici (also) recommended by Tim Raue, you can do so at Tanjga, a barbecue restaurant just around a bend on the main road from Kotor inland.

Extra tip

The railroad line from Bar on Montenegro's Adriatic coast to the Serbian capital Belgrade runs right through the middle of the country and is one of the most spectacular and difficult in the world - with 254 tunnels, 243 bridges and gradients of up to 25%. It takes 11 hours to cover the 480 km - but it often takes longer. You will have to do without comfort in the 1st class (sleeping) car, but you will experience a train adventure that you wouldn't think possible in Europe! The best way back is by plane. The routes from Belgrade to Podgorica or Tivat are served several times a day.
Timetable on zcg-prevez.me


General information:
National Tourism Organization of Montenegro.travel