Boomtown on the Bosporus

Trendy, cosmopolitan, modern, creative and culturally in tune with the times, but at the same time ultra-conservative and traditional: Istanbul, the vibrant metropolis at the crossroads of two continents, is a spectacular city where past, present and future seem to merge seamlessly.

The contrasts of Istanbul have impressed me since I first came to the Bosphorus many years ago - enchanted by the mysticism of the Orient, amazed by the dynamism of the city and impressed by its art and creativity. At times, however, I was also worried about development and regression, and then again I was thrilled by the cosmopolitanism and forward thinking.
Having recently returned, my love has been rekindled: New luxury hotels offer international flair, the growing cultural scene with interesting concepts impresses not only connoisseurs, creativity is seemingly omnipresent: in architecture, among fashion designers, in the gourmet scene. Istanbul's ambition to show and, above all, live the best of both worlds is evident everywhere.





Miras - the program to save the historical heritage - is written as a slogan above many projects. In the mosques and palaces along the old harbor and in the labyrinth of narrow alleyways and shopping streets, the millennia-old history of Istanbul - once the capital of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires - is ever-present. More than almost any other city, Istanbul is a symbol of how close the past and present can be to each other. Of course, it is still fascinating to visit the Galata Tower, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque or the Topkapi Palace or to be captivated by the oriental magic of the souks. And if the weather is good, you should definitely plan a trip on the Bosphorus to see both the European and Asian shores from the water and swim between two continents.
continents.





Europe and Asia are close enough to touch on a boat trip on the Bosphorus: What makes Istanbul particularly exciting at the moment, however, are modern art temples such as the Istanbul Modern by star architect Renzo Piano in the newly built Galataport, which will open in summer 2023. But a stroll along the waterfront promenade with its many chic bars and eateries is also pure entertainment, because the mix of locals and visitors is at least as rich in contrast as the cultures in this city. Strolling along the boulevards of Nisantasi with its upmarket boutiques and trendy restaurants - the most expensive district in the city after Belek by the sea - is like strolling along the boulevards of Paris. Gourmets can experience culinary euphoria in five restaurants with at least one Michelin star; after all, the Michelin Guide Istanbul has already included over 50 restaurants since it was first published in October 2022. And even discerning cultural critics note that, in view of the numerous gallery openings, there is now a cultural boom in the metropolis of millions that is fueling hopes for the future.

As a contrasting program, chilling out in one of the numerous rooftop bars is the order of the day, where I saw more "beautiful people" than anywhere else in London, Milan or New York. Because everyone in Istanbul wants to go up high. Even if all that glitters here is not gold - being enchanted by the lights on the Golden Horn should be allowed even in less rosy times ...





Living

■ Sanasaryan Han - A Luxury Collection Hotel
The city's newest luxury hotel opened in spring 2024 with just 63 rooms on a historic peninsula in the middle of the old town district. The neoclassical building dating back to 1895 has been carefully restored and reflects the opulent splendor of the past. The view from the Ottoman arched windows in the six suites is spectacular. There is also the Sini fine-dining restaurant with classic Turkish cuisine and "The Library by Sanasaryan" (named after the philanthropist who commissioned the building) with weekly performances by well-known local artists.
www.marriott.com

■ The Peninsula
In a prominent location directly on the Bosphorus and in the immediate vicinity of the Galataport, the Peninsula will open in spring 2023. The elegant lobby of the ultra-luxurious hotel with a total of 177 rooms and suites is reminiscent of the building's past as the city's first modern cruise terminal. Accommodation is provided in three interconnected complexes, which are under a preservation order and are characterized by a successful mix of modern Turkish design and traditional craftsmanship. Other highlights include a gourmet restaurant with a roof terrace by two-star chef Fatih Tutak, the artfully landscaped gardens with a panoramic 25-metre pool on the banks of the Bosphorus, a terrace restaurant with a boat dock and the elegant spa. But the magnificently curated art, which is spread throughout the hotel, also knows how to inspire.
www.peninsula.com

■ Kempinski Ciragan Palace
Ottoman opulence with a view of Asia: the former imperial palace has been one of the best addresses in the city since the 1990s and will shine in new splendor and with an elegant, contemporary design following extensive renovations in 2023. Guests in the 317 rooms and suites, including eleven magnificent suites in the historic palace, enjoy the resort character approx. 5 km from the city center. Located directly on the banks of the Bosphorus, guests can relax by the large infinity pool or be pampered in the luxury spa. Excellent cuisine is on offer in the fine dining restaurant Tugra, the garden restaurant Gazebo, the upscale Italian restaurant Bellini and the Turkish-Mediterranean restaurant Akdemiz. The latter is also recommended for an excellent Sunday brunch.
www.kempinski.com

■ Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus
Inspired by the villas and palaces on the city's waterfront, this hotel, which opened in summer 2021, is a contemporary homage to Istanbul. It is located a 15-minute drive from the city center in the elegant villa district of Besiktas. The 100 rooms and suites with large glass fronts, some with huge terraces, were designed by Adam Tijani Design from New York to be as elegant as they are comfortable. The Novikov Restaurant and Lounge Bar are among the most popular dining and cocktail venues in town. The Bosphorus Lounge on the riverside terrace is a meeting place for locals and international guests. Only opened at the end of '23 and already trendy: the Hakkasan restaurant with first-class Cantonese cuisine. In the 3,500 m² spa with eleven treatment rooms and atmospheric indoor gardens, guests feel like they are in a world of their own, and there are also two outdoor and one indoor pool. www.mandarinoriental.com

Hotel tips for connoisseurs

■ Soho House
Trendy in-hotel for scene lovers, considered one of the most beautiful of the Soho House group. It is a little hidden yet centrally located in the heart of the lively Beyoglu district with the imposing Galata Tower at its center. A membership club in concept, it is a boutique hotel with 87 rooms in an old 19th century palazzo.
www.sohohouse.com

■ Pera Palace
For those who like history, the Pera Palace - also located in Beyoglu - opened in 1895 and takes you back to the early days of the legendary Orient Express. The guests of the luxury train - above all Agatha Christie, who wrote large parts of "Murder on the Orient Express" here in room 411 - started their journeys north from here. Many celebrities, from Mata Hari and Greta Garbo to Jackie Onassis and Ernest Hemingway, have stayed in the classically furnished rooms, which have of course since been renovated. An exhibition room is dedicated to the founder of the state, Atatürk, and the historic Pera Palace Café from 1892 is a must-see!
www.perapalace.com

■ The Bank Hotel Istanbul
This hotel, a member of the Design Hotels, is located in the Karaköy district on the boulevard of the financial district and once served as a bank. Stylishly renovated, the boutique hotel is characterized
hotel with its 52 rooms and suites is characterized by its intimate character.
character. Definitely worth a visit: the bar on the roof terrace with a magnificent view of the old town.
www.designhotels.com www.marriott.com

Restaurants

■ Turk Fatih Tutak
Gourmet highlight and the only two-star temple in Town: Turk Fatih Tutak fascinates its 30 or so guests every evening with a 13-course menu that is hard to beat in terms of imagination and completely reinterprets Turkish cuisine.
www.turkft.com

■ Mikla
Modern, Michelin-starred Anatolian cuisine with 360-degree views from the 18th floor of the Marmara Pera Hotel. Mikla was the first Turkish restaurant to make it onto San Pellegrino's list of the top 50 restaurants.
www.miklarestrant.com

■ Must
As the name suggests: a must for gourmets, but also for people-watching: if you want to take a stylish break from shopping in the trendy Nisantasi district, meet up here. Beautiful people, original furnishings
and inventive bistro cuisine.
www.mustnisantasi.com

■ Muutto
The hotspot on the waterfront promenade in Galataport: the Anatolian tapas not only attract locals, the trendy crowd comes from all over the world.
www.muutto.com

Cultural highlights

■ Istanbul Modern
When it opened in July '23 it caused a worldwide sensation, now it is a landmark: the museum for local, modern and contemporary art designed by Pritzker Prize winner Renzo Piano. It is located in the up-and-coming and exciting Karaköy harbor district and is part of the Galataport harbor complex, which was named the best new development project in the world at the MAPIC Awards 2023.
development project worldwide.
www.istanbulmodern.org

■ AKM - Atatürk Cultural Center
Opened in 2021 on Taksim Square, the cultural center is the largest in Turkey. The striking red dome houses an opera house, a concert hall, the Chamber Theater, the Aziz Nesin Stages and a cinema.
www.akmistanbul.gov.tr

■ Insider tip for literature fans
The small "Museum of Innocence", which Nobel Prize winner Orhan Pamuk donated to his home town, was created after one of his most famous novels, which tells the tragic story of a love affair. To this day, the author adds to the collection in person and shows all kinds of bizarre things that literature lovers might already know from his book.
www.masumiyetmuzesi.org

Shopping with Istanbul's top designers

■ Sevan Bicakci
He is considered the eccentric among jewelry designers, his unique pieces are just as popular with show stars as they are with extravagant collectors, and he receives exclusive customers from all over the world in his studio near the Grand Bazaar.
www.sevanbisakci.com

■ Öslem Süer
In her palace, which is worth seeing in itself with its romantic garden and various rooms, the Grand Lady of Fashion, who is very well known in Turkey, shows her various collections. www.ozlemsuer.com

■ Begüm Khan
The shop window alone in the trendy Nisantasi district is a showcase: in antique glass cabinets, the - incidentally beautiful - jewelry designer displays her imaginative unique pieces, which are inspired by nature and Eastern mysticism. Khan also designed a limited-edition bee bottle for Guerlain's Imagine perfume creation.
www.begumkhan.com

■ Atelier Rebul
In the Galataport shopping complex, the store of the famous perfumer impresses with its elegance and design, which is reminiscent of an antique pharmacy. Here you can buy beautiful gifts and also reward yourself, e.g. with a fragrance you have created yourself.
www.atelierrebul.be

Ümit Ünal, Beyoglu
The concept artist and fashion designer has been shaping the creative scene in his home city since 1998.
He is now also known internationally and his men's and women's fashion has already caused a sensation in New York.
www.umitunal.com