A lot of art of living in a small space

Malta revisited

Malta and its sister island Gozo are synonymous with Mediterranean flair and pure culture. CC author Claudia Bette-Wenngatz took a look behind the historical scenes and discovered that the once conservative, British-influenced islands have long since become a hotspot for high-class cuisine and art.


Starting an article with a farewell to an island may seem rather unusual. Nevertheless, the very special feeling of looking out over the lights of Valletta from a private sailing yacht on the last evening is like the essence of Malta, this Mediterranean island that is as picturesque as it is multicultural and where glamor and tradition are now very close together. The still warm autumn evening sun illuminates the defiant fortress of St. Angelo as if by spotlights. The baroque domes are bathed in golden yellow light and the waves lapping gently against the bow of our 14-metre-long sailing ship. Simon, the captain, has set course for the quay wall, where he releases me back onto solid ground after a cruise of around two hours in Valletta's harbor basin. What a glamorous and grandiose highlight of a trip that showed me a completely different side to Malta, which I had previously perceived as more commercial than high-class!

High class instead of commerce

I stroll through the brightly lit city center, where life is pulsating again despite corona precautions, back to The Phoenicia Hotel, which reflects Malta's tradition as a tourist destination like no other on the island, and not just because of its Phoenician name. After all, the "Grand Old Hotel Lady", opened in 1947 by Lady Mabel Strickland, has already hosted countless prominent guests from the aristocracy, politics and the film business with its Art Deco flair and the 20,000 m2 garden with pool on the old city wall. It is now seeking recognition in the modern tourist era with the newly opened, chic Deep Nature Spa and exhibitions by contemporary Maltese artists in the lobby lounge decorated with flower power sofas.
Lady Strickland delighted Queen Elizabeth, who enjoyed staying with her during her princess years in Malta, with an annual package of fresh Malta oranges long afterwards. Today, Andrew Strickland, a direct descendant, plans to attract young guests with paddle courts in the garden and culinary and cultural events. The current regular guest is Alex Dilling, a British celebrity chef who had to leave his two-star restaurant Greenhouse in Mayfair due to coronavirus. Every day, he walks from the hotel through star architect Renzo Piano's contemporary-imposing city gate to the Iniala Harbour House Hotel on Barbara Bastion, where he celebrates his creative culinary art with the best view of the city in the Ion Restaurant on top of the boutique hotel that opened in 2020. "I'm totally blown away by the top quality of the local fish here," he enthuses, serving pink shrimp, mackerel and rockfish to rival his famous "Hunter Chicken" on the menu. "I love incorporating local, Mediterranean produce into my menu. Malta is well on its way to becoming a hotspot on the European gourmet scene," says the master chef. The beginnings have certainly been made. In 2020, in the middle of the crisis, the Michelin Guide came to the island and awarded three restaurants a star. Two more were added in 2021. "This gave the culinary scene on the island a big boost," says Maltese Michelin-starred chef Kevin Bonello, who has already cooked for Prince Charles, Sharon Stone and Bruce Willis in the De Mondion restaurant at the renowned boutique hotel Xara Palace in the atmospheric former capital of Mdina. They have enjoyed the view over the vastness of the island as much as the cuisine, in which Bonello creatively showcases local rabbit and lampuki, the local species of mackerel that swims past the Maltese islands on its way to the Atlantic until the end of December.
The internationally renowned Maltese fashion designers Charles and Ron have no claim to gourmet stars in their brand new café in Naxxar. Nevertheless, Dom Perignon is served here alongside healthy smoothies, Asian food and fashion. Another new addition to Malta's fashion map is Sliema. Mary Grace Pisani, who caused a sensation by dressing Maltese show stars and has made a name for herself beyond the island's borders with her Cessani haute couture collection, has opened a showroom here. International brands are still keeping a low profile, but Valletta boasts many small, original boutiques that make the area around Republic and Merchant Streets very lively. Young people are also drawn to Birgu, one of the "Three Sisters" districts, which exudes a lot of charm with its small alleyways. Here you will also find many stores with handicrafts and Maltese-inspired design, such as Stefanie Borg, who works with silk and ceramics.

Meghan Markle and the Maltese Marquis

There is no doubt that the art scene has seen a lot of growth since Valletta became Capital of Culture in 2018. Malta has increasingly developed from a seaside and cultural destination into a lifestyle destination. Young companies such as Art Studio Te fi t-Tazza by Andrew Farrugia and Craig Macdonald have found their place here with modern interpretations of Malta motifs, as have renowned artists. For example, the well-known installation artist and architect Norbert Attard has turned his Valletta Contemporary gallery, founded in 2018, into an internationally acclaimed art center where he exhibits "old" and new artists alike. Nicholas, the 9th Marquis de Piro, observes all of this with the benevolence of a nobleman who has experienced many ups and downs in his homeland. He reflects on the tradition and 400-year history of his Casa Rocca Piccola, the only privately owned palazzo in Valletta that is open to visitors. "We are not a museum, we live in this house and with its history," emphasizes the 80-year-old. His stories are at least as informative as a history book - but far more amusing. His anecdotes are peppered with historical facts from his own family history and stories from today. For example, the proud Marquess likes to talk about the visit of former actress Meghan Markle, who is now the Duchess of Sussex, causing a sensation and gossip. A few years ago, she visited him to find out more about the history of her Maltese ancestors.

The glamor of today and the traditions

of the past: Malta combines both In any case, Hollywood and Malta have had a close relationship for a long time. If there were an Oscar for "Best Actor in a Location Role", the island would be guaranteed a permanent nomination. From Gladiator to Titanic to Game of Thrones: numerous Hollywood movies have been filmed here at original locations - and in the studios in Valletta with the second largest water tank in the world. On the way to the ferry to Gozo, I pass Popeye Village. The film set, built in 1980, is now a popular children's playground. International film stars were (and still are) often on location for weeks at a time. Some, such as Angelina Jolie or David Bowie, were also drawn from Malta to the neighboring island of Gozo, where life - just half an hour's drive away - is much slower. "I can already feel a different energy on the ferry. Gozo is simply more relaxed, more rural and, above all, much greener than Malta, especially in winter!" says Hermine Sammut. Like many others, the Austrian teacher came to Malta 27 years ago for a language course, appreciated the interesting diving areas with many shipwrecks, fell in love with the diving instructor and now lives as a freelance artist by conveying "art with all senses" to her guests. With wild herb walks, ceramics courses, instructions in painting with natural pigments or massages with essential oils as well as cooking according to local recipes, she conveys the spirit of Gozo and appeals mainly to women. This fits in well with the fact that, according to legend, Gozo is the island of Calypso, who held Odysseus captive for seven years in Calypso Cave above Ramla Bay.
Many visitors to the island stay in farmhouses, which are very popular on Gozo. If you want to combine your vacation with wellness, the five-star Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz in the middle of the island - which on the small island of Gozo means about a ten-minute drive to the sea from any direction - is the place to be. Here, the Indian art of Ayurveda is practised in an amazingly authentic way with Indian doctors and therapists.
I bid farewell to Gozo, the island of artists, with a visit to the sculptor Joe Xuereb, a stonemason's son from Ghajnsielem. He started out as a self-taught artist, but today his sculptures, which he shows at international exhibitions from Milan to New York and Tokyo, cost up to 15,000 euros. He has held 13 exhibitions in Germany alone and was inspired by pre-Christian temple statues, for which Gozo is famous. Xuereb and his works take me back to the prehistory of the Maltese islands, because he works with the millions of years old limestone that characterizes the colors and images of Malta and Gozo. It was also used to create the important megalithic temples, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as the majority of the alleged 365 churches.
The glamor of today and the traditions of the past - in the smallest EU country, these two contrasts create something truly magnificent. If you want to experience it live, you should pay a visit to Malta and Gozo, the two islands between Italy and North Africa, soon.

TRAVEL

Air Malta flies from several
German airports as well as from
Zurich and from Vienna several
weekly direct flights to Malta - all year round.
all year round.
www.airmalta.com

Living

Malta
■ The Phoenicia Malta
Atmospheric art deco
ambience in a prime location directly
city wall, quietly situated and
yet only a few steps away from
the center of Valletta.
Extensive gardens for strolling
stroll, with open-air pool. Perfect
for cooler months: the brand new
Deep Nature Spa with large indoor
indoor pool, The-Phoenix-
restaurant offers a large
terrace for brunch, lunch or dinner
lunch or dinner with a magnificent view
of the harbor. Member of the
Leading Hotels of the World.
www.phoeniciamalta.com

■ Iniala Harbour House
Exclusive, privately owned boutique hotel
privately owned boutique hotel with
14 suites in two townhouses,
small spa and rooftop terrace
with stunning views of the harbor and
the Three Sisters. Excellent -
and a must for gourmets:
the Michelin-starred restaurant ION -
The Harbour.
www.inialamalta.com

■ Xara Palace
Charming Relais & Châteaux
hotel in a town palace from the
17th century town palace in medieval Mdina,
the old capital of Malta.
Restaurant DE MONDION with one star
star and spectacular panoramic views
over large parts of the island.
www.xarapalace.com

Gozo
■ Kempinski San Lawrenz
5-star luxury with 30,000 m2
garden in a beautiful location in the interior of the island.
Several restaurants,
large pool area, spa and an authentic
authentic Ayurveda center,
where you can also take
cures. www.kempinski.com

■ Thirty Seven Hotel
Small, original design
boutique hotel with small gardens
and many works of art in two
old farmhouses. 2 km from
Xlendi beach.
www.thirtysevengozo.com
Food & drink

Charles & Ron Cafe
Chic new fashion café and
restaurant in the flagship store of the
designer duo with an extensive cocktail
cocktail menu, smoothies, large breakfast
breakfast selection, healthy bites,
Fashion Bread, etc. In the store you will find
the latest designs from the
designers in magnificent colors
and a large selection. In Naxxar, in the
interior of the island.
www.charlesandron.com

■ The Rooftop at The Embassy Valletta Hotel
Chic, modern rooftop terrace restaurant
with pool, which mainly scores with its great
scores with a great view. Located directly
in the city center and is worth
especially in good weather.
www.embassyvallettahotel.com

Gozo
■ One80 Kitchen at
Mġarr Yacht Marina
Lively modern harbor restaurant
with delicious
delicious fish and the opportunity to
to try, because there are small and
larger portions.
www.one80gozo.com.mt
Good to see malta

■ Casa Rocca Piccola
The original private
palazzo from the 16th century and the
only one open to visitors.
to visitors. The furnishings and atmosphere
are unique and offer a great
great opportunity to discover the
the history of Valletta and the knights.
and the knights. There are some
guest rooms for overnight stays
and daily tours - with a bit of
with a bit of luck you will be
his wife in person.
personally.
www.casaroccapiccola.com

■ Muza
National Museum of Fine Arts
Museum of Fine Arts in the
former palace of the Italian
of the Knights of Malta
with temporary and permanent
exhibitions. It houses a
collection of works by Maltese
and foreign artists in a
beautifully restored ambience.

■ The Upper Barraka Gardens
Very beautiful public gardens
at the highest point of the
of the city fortifications on the St. Peter
and Paul Bastion with a magnificent
view of the Grand Harbour
and the Three Sisters. Probably the
most popular place for weddings in
the city.

■ Palazzo Parisio
Magnificent palace from the 20th century.
in Naxxar in the interior of the island with a rather
inconspicuous Art Noveau façade.
Decorated in lavish Sicilian Baroque style
baroque style with restaurant and
café and a romantic garden.
garden. Popular movie and wedding
wedding location.
www.palazzoparisio.com

SIGHTSEEING FROM THE SEA

Renting sailing or motor boats
is quite affordable for groups
affordable - and especially
a unique experience
unique experience.
www.maltamedcharters.com

GOZO
RABAT VICTORIA AND THE CITADEL
All roads in Gozo lead to
Rabat (also known as Victoria),
which, for an otherwise very quiet and
tranquil island surprisingly
lively capital. The citadel
is a great vantage point,
which can be seen from almost the entire
can be seen from almost all over the island.

TIEKA ZERKA
The Azure Window on the west coast
coast of Gozo near San Lawrenz is
20 meters high and 100 meters long
meters long enormous rock gate.
Until its collapse in
2017 it was the landmark of Gozo
of Gozo and can still be seen in
can still be seen in many pictures. The remaining
remaining rock formation -
including a film location in Game of
Thrones - is still very impressive
impressive and is definitely worth
definitely worth a visit.

SALT PANS
Salt production was already
the Romans on Malta and Gozo
known. Since then
technology has changed little. The most scenic
most beautiful salt pans
are located at Qbajjar near Marsalforn.

SHOPPING & ART

MALTA
VALLETTA CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERY
Renowned art gallery known beyond the island's borders
known beyond the island's borders,
the socially critical Maltese
installation artist Norbert
Attard founded. Through his
connections to artists all over the
the world, internationally renowned
artists are also exhibited here
www.vallettacontemporary.com

CESSANI HAUTE COUTURE
Mary Grace Pisani designs haute
couture garments, which are mainly
locally made embroidery by hand
hand embroidery and is unique.
Make an appointment at the
showroom in Sliema.
T. +356 77 008 811

TE' FIT-TAZZA:
Founded by two young Maltese
Maltese with original
original, colorful posters and modern
and modern designs based on
old Maltese motifs.
www.tefittazza.com

STEPHANIE BORG
Maltese artist who is primarily known
through designs with Maltese
tiles, balconies and doors
and doors. In the meantime
her ceramic and fabric products
in several art stores and
even at the airport.
www.stephanieborg.com

GOZO
CONNECT2GOZO
The Austrian artist
Hermine Sammut has been living in Malta
almost 30 years on Malta and Gozo
and offers art courses in which you
the island with all your senses
painting, pottery, cooking, collecting herbs and
collecting herbs and
can experience. In her own guest
House, she will soon be renting out
rooms, which she will decorate with
with numerous works of art
works of art.
www.connect2gozo.com

JOE XUEREB SCULPTURE GALLERY:
The sculptor, who has already
exhibitions all over the world
the world, exhibits his works in his own
studio, where you can also buy them.
can also be bought. He lives in Ghajnsielem, the
the first place that visitors to Gozo
after landing in the harbor of
Mgarr harbor.
www.joexuereb.com

TRANSPORT
The bus system is very good, cabs are
are relatively cheap and have
fixed prices. The new ferry from
Valletta to Gozo runs several
several times a day and takes
45 minutes, the regular crossing from
crossing from Marfa Point on the
the western tip of Malta to Mgarr
Mgarr on Gozo takes 25 minutes and
and runs up to 63 times a week.
week. Travel time from Valletta to
Marfa Point approx. one hour.

GENERAL INFORMATION
www.visitmalta.com
Current entry requirements:
www.malta.reise/staysafe
The German Sabine Attard has lived
in Malta for 30 years, has already
many celebrities about the island
and knows her way around the island
and always has a good tip.
T. +365 99 459 771