Persistent revolutionary of Alpine cuisine

Interview with Norbert Niederkofler

Norbert Niederkofler is the only three-star chef in South Tyrol - and the culinary revolutionary of the Dolomites. Born in Ahrntal, he has broken away from classic haute cuisine out of conviction and helped Alpine cuisine achieve a breakthrough with his unique perseverance. His "Cook the Mountain" concept is radically regional, seasonal and sustainable.


CC: You were successful at Rosa Alpina for years with classic haute cuisine and had two stars. Why did you jeopardize all that?

Niederkofler: At the time, we really did fly all the products that God had forbidden to South Tyrol. Then I gave it some thought and spent a year asking our international guests what they expected from us. It didn't really make sense for us to serve them food that they would get in New York, Tokyo or London. So I wrote the "Cook the Mountain" concept in 2008. But it took four to five years to set up the supply chain with around 50 local farmers for such a radically sustainable, regional and seasonal cuisine, in which we don't even use olive oil, for example, and in which there is no lettuce in winter because our farmers don't use greenhouses.


How important are the suppliers for your kitchen philosophy?

Very important. We have always worked together at eye level. And it's extremely important to tell our guests their story. This is also reflected in my new book. In "Cook the Mountain - The nature around you", I tell more about the farmers than about myself.


Have you never doubted your turnaround?

I was born in the Ahrntal. We are stubborn people. But it was a hard road. In between, critics who meant well by us warned me. An insider even wrote me an email once: "You'll get into trouble and lose the second star". I presented it to my team. Everyone tore it up and together we decided to continue on our way. And we were successful after all. In 2017, we received our third star as the first restaurant in the world to work completely sustainably. I didn't reinvent anything, but I implemented it more consistently. And that was also appreciated by the Michelin Guide after a rethink began there too.


Has the third star been a lifelong dream come true?

My goal was to cook up three stars at some point. But it was a team effort. I would never have got this far without teamwork.


Have you always been a team player?

I have been. I used to ski downhill races in my youth. That was an incredibly enjoyable and instructive time. I got around a bit through training and racing and became more independent. Skiing also taught me how to deal with victories and defeats. And that, as an individual athlete, you have to make it alone in the end, but you're nothing without a good team. It's the same as a chef.


Is it true that because of your passion for skiing, you also chose your training positions as a chef based on where good ski resorts are?

Yes, actually. That's how I ended up in Lech, Aspen and Alaska. But I've also worked with top chefs like Alfons Schubeck, Jörg Müller, David Bouley and my great role model Eckart Witzigmann.


Do you still find time to go skiing?

When I'm at Kronplatz in the AlpiNN, for example, I like to go skiing with my ten-year-old son. Preferably on the steep and long slopes. The panorama there is fantastic, with the Dolomites on one side and the main Alpine ridge on the other. The steep Gran Risa World Cup giant slalom course in Alta Badia and the World Cup downhill run in Val Gardena/Gröden are the main attractions for me around San Cassiano/St. Kassian.


Are you still putting the pedal to the metal on the slopes?

I've become a fair-weather rider, but when I ride, I ride properly!


Speaking of the right way: South Tyroleans seem to be doing a lot of things right. Their region is now one of the top gourmet destinations in Europe. Who gave the initial spark?

Winegrowers like Alois Lageder. The fact that they started producing first-class quality wines instead of mass-produced wines attracted connoisseurs. The restaurants then responded to their demand. South Tyrol has now developed extremely well. We have great products, first-class winegrowers and very good restaurants with the whole range from mountain huts to Michelin-starred restaurants.