Chateau de Valmer

The address in the middle of the vineyards and yet almost directly by the sea seems to surprise even our otherwise Cossack-loyal GPS. There's no other explanation as to why it can't decide between "recalculate route" and "please turn around". Instead, at the last traffic circle before our destination, we choose the exit to Plage de Gigaro on our own initiative - and are met with icy silence from the car loudspeaker until we arrive. Just as well, because the last few hundred meters to the Château de Valmer lead along a dead-straight cypress avenue, which is best enjoyed in silence anyway.

The welcome at the château, which is actually more of a time-honored, not always stylishly rebuilt and expanded wine estate, takes place in an inner courtyard. The residential and wellness wing with reception area and pretty concept store can also be reached from here. Our Provencal-style "Suite Familiale" with its gallery floor has two bedrooms and just as many balconies. However, the only bathroom with toilet is rather modest. By contrast, the impressive gardens are anything but small, with a palm grove, pool, outdoor salon and winding paths between vegetable patches and rows of vines.

For those who prefer to relax by the sea, the shuttle will take you to the sister hotel La Pinède Plage, just a minute away, where you can use all the beach club facilities. However, he should definitely be back in time for dinner, because the dishes that Alexandre Fabris serves on the terrace and in the garden of Château de Valmer definitely deserve more than just the one star awarded to him by the Michelin Guide! His seven-course "surprise menu from the sea" is definitely the culinary surprise of this trip for us - and a good reason to come back. But then without an offended GPS, as we can now find our own way to this paradise between vineyards and water.