Down the Danube

The stretch from Passau to Vienna is regarded as the queen's stage of the Danube Cycle Path. The best way to experience it is on a cycle cruise.

Before the ship departs from Passau,

we have a little time to chat with Rade Boboković, the first captain. The Serbian-born captain has been sailing on the "MS Primadonna" for three years: "It is the only catamaran on the Danube and the second largest passenger ship on the river," says the captain proudly as he shows us his workplace. From there, he and his crew of 11 will steer us safely through the night - and several locks - to Ybbs over the next few hours.



The next morning we set off by bike

through the Wachau. Our blue e-bikes are already waiting on the riverbank. Marco Novaković - hotel manager of the MS Primadonna - will be our personal tour guide. The early morning fog has already lifted, the Danube glistens in the sunlight and we set off for Melk. We cycle along the right bank of the river through vineyards and small villages until the basilica of Maria Taferl appears in the distance. In Pöchlarn, the birthplace of the Austrian painter Oskar Kokoschka, we make a short stop to visit the museum dedicated to him. Then we continue through the Wachau to Spitz and back to Melk, where we board the ship again.



This time we are allowed a glimpse

behind the scenes of perfect guest service on the ship. In the kitchen, dozens of schnitzels are being breaded, tens of kilos of potatoes peeled and just as many onions chopped. "We are committed to Viennese cuisine," explains the head chef, but "in a healthy, light version". Everything is freshly prepared on board. And you can taste it!



Further down in the belly of the ship

the engineer watches over his equipment. It smells of oil and diesel. The machinist wears black and is reminiscent of a highly concentrated master of ceremonies in the realm of darkness. But because we are not supposed to be down there with him, he politely reminds us that dinner is about to start. After almost 50 kilometers of cycling, we have well and truly earned it. It's delicious - as always. Later, we enjoy the wonderful view of the Danube from the bar at the front of the ship. The pianist plays romantic melodies on his piano, while a white-haired lady at the next table makes love. It's time to go to sleep.



The Danube gurgles outside the cabin window

and the ship sails gently on to Bratislava, where we dock the next morning. Over breakfast, Sanne from Amsterdam tells me how much she is enjoying the trip. "I've always dreamed of traveling down the Danube," she says. After retiring, she has finally fulfilled this wish. Alexandra from Munich is also enthusiastic. She is particularly looking forward to Vienna. The ship will dock there in two days. But there is still a lot to explore before then, Bratislava for example.



After a short tour

through the Slovakian capital, we get ready for the next "ride". This time it's back to Austria to Hof Castle. The weather is glorious, the snacks are packed and Marko leads us again very competently past Devin Castle, over a pedestrian and cycle bridge to Prince Eugene's castle and back to Bratislava. On board the ship, I treat myself to a massage - a relief for my tired bones - and relax a little in the whirlpool on the sun deck. A concert has been announced for this evening in the on-board theater. A little later, the MS Primadonna sails on towards Budapest to the sound of Hungarian music.



We reach the Hungarian capital

in the early hours of the morning. It's hard to imagine a more beautiful journey. Luckily I woke up in good time. I can see the Hungarian parliament through the porthole - some people are already cycling to work on the riverbank. Today I have my breakfast coffee on the terrace of the restaurant. Sanne is also back. We enjoy the first warming rays of sunshine together and are convinced that it will be another wonderful day.



Bike cruise with the 4*+ MS Primadonna:


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from 793 euros per person in a double cabin for 7 nights


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including full board, 4 shore excursions & 1 partial body massage


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Surcharge for rental bike incl. saddle bag for 7 days 68 euros, e-bike 150 euros. You can take your own bike with you free of charge


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There are five dates from May 25 to September 21, 2018


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Route through four countries: Passau-Schlögen-Linz-Tulln-Vienna-Komáro-Esztergom/Štúrovo-Budapest-Bratislava-Krems-Pöchlarn-Passau


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Cycle routes are between 22 and 60 km long and easy to manage even without an e-bike





More info:

www.donaureisen.at


Text: Ute Fuith




Image credit: (c) Donau Touristik / Ute Fuith